Re: broken sun visor mount

On 01/21/21 10:40 PM, VanguardLH wrote:
> T <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> 2006 Forrester
>>
>> My driver's side sun visor mount is cracked.  I asked
>> the dealership for a replacement.  They wanted to sell
>> me a whole new sun visor for ONE HUNDRED SIXTY
>> U.S. DOLLARS.    YIKES !!!!
>>
>> I told him I would try super glue first.
>>
>> Anyone know where I an get a replacement mount?  Or
>> a cheaper solution?
> 
> They probably don't have the components of a sun visor to sell to you.
> They have parts that are assemblies.  Just like they don't have parts to
> repair a broken ignition switch, but have to replace the entire
> switching assembly that mounts on the steering column.
> 
> I wouldn't use superglue to repair the cracked mount which is probably
> metal.  I'd use JB Weld steel-reinforced cold weld epoxy.  When cured,
> that stuff is as hard as metal.  I've drained an oil pan, use a
> drill-mounted wire brush to clean around a hole in the pan, sanded
> around the hole to provide a rough surface for grip, and use JB Weld to
> fill the hole and blend onto the surface around the hole to fix an oil
> leak in a pencil-sized hole (was for someone's car, and figured they
> repeatedly drove the car over something that kept scraping the oil pan).
> The stuff became metal when it cured.  No more leak.  Never came loose.
> I've used it to repair other metal breaks.  That stuff gets HARD.  It's
> a 2-part epoxy, but with metal slivers to provide the adhesiveness of
> the expoxy with the strength of steel.  Costs $5.
> 
> You'll some way to pull on the mount to open the crack, make sure it is
> clean, and squeeze in some steel epoxy into the crack, and then a way
> (like a clamp) to close the crack and let the epoxy cure (15-24 hours).
> Of course, you could just crack it apart, clean the edges, apply the
> steel epoxy, and then clamp together to let cure.
> 
> The above assumes the mount is made of metal.  The steel epoxy is
> supposed to work on metal, wood, plastic, tile, fiberglass, concrete,
> and more materials.  I've only used it for metal repair.
> 
> 
> In my area, there is a salvage yard that lets you come in to remove
> parts, and they're cheap (you do the labor).  That place is only for 20+
> year old cars.  They don't allow power tools in the yard (a liability
> issue).  The have a web site where you can check their car inventory,
> but you may need to find a year model that is close to yours instead of
> an exact match since parts are used over several year-models.
> 
> There is another salvage dealer that doesn't let you in their yard.
> They scrap the vehicle for parts, and you buy the parts they salvaged.
> The parts cost more because they did the labor to sell them separately.
> They have a 90-day warranty, so if you happen to get one that is
> defective then you can return it to swap for another.
> 
Very expensive breakable piece of plastic crap.

I use a large clamp type paper clip to hold it up and then wear a hat with a 
visor.

-- 
Wilson 44.69, -67.3