RE: Re: broken sun visor mount

Yeah, I'd use my Dremel tool with a small abrasive cut-off disk to quickly remove those tabs, maybe with a damp cloth wrapped around the spring clamp to act as a heat sink so the plastic mount didn't melt.

> > 
> > Hi All,
> > 
> > A follow up to the "visor in the head" problem.
> > 
> > A spring clamp firmed it up beautifully.  No
> > more free swinging.
> > 
> > Problem: I could not get it all back through
> > the ceiling mount hole.  POOP !!!
> > 
> > A picture:
> >     https://ibb.co/tKVVM5q
> > 
> > So, I am thinking that since this is a frequent
> > problem with this visor, that is might be less
> > expensive to get a new one than to have to replace
> > a used mount several times.
> > 
> > Thank you all for the tips!
> > 
> > -T
> 
> While you pictured the spring hose clamp sitting at the end of the
> collar (that applies pressure to the end of the visor rod), the clamp
> could not be slid further down onto the collar?
> 
> The tangs are only so you can press them together to enlarge the clamp,
> and release to apply pressure to the hose around which is the clamp.
> Could you maybe bend down or snip off those tangs to let you insert the
> mount all the way inside its recess in the ceiling?
> 
> Maybe instead of spring clamps with tangs sticking out, maybe you could
> use PEX pipe.  Looks like the collar is tapered.  See if there is PEX
> pipe at the inside diameter of the top of the collar: remove the visor
> rod (because of its flange at the end), put contact cement on the collar
> and inside a stub of PEX pipe and wait to get tacky, tamp the PEX pipe
> down on the collar, let set, and reinsert the visor rod so its flange
> snaps past the end of the collar.
> 
> There are also PEX crimp rings (go around pipe to crimp down onto
> connector).  Alas, you have to buy the crimp tool, and has a size to
> match the crimp ring; however, if you have any PEX in your home, you'll
> probably want one when you renovate, alter, or add to your PEX plumbing.
> You don't want to use a PEX clamp, but the bulge where you crimp would
> probably stick out further even if flattened than the tangs on the
> spring host clamp you used.
> 
> There are metal cable ties (stainless steel).  You'll need a needle nose
> plier to curl the end string after the catch end to get it as tight as
> possible.  It's not they're plastic which will stretch a bit while
> tightening.
> 
> Looks like the spring hose clamp would work, but maybe you need to get
> rid of the tangs, so you can get the mount to be flush with the ceiling.