Re: Anyone else having problems with Duracell batteries?

Your Name <[email protected]> Sat, 18 Dec 2021 14:02:16 +1300
Newsgroups alt.autos.subaru
Organization Aioe.org NNTP Server
Message-ID <[email protected]>
On 2021-12-18 00:11:19 +0000, Wade Garrett said:
> On 12/17/21 11:14 AM, Larry Hornsby wrote:
>> On Tuesday, October 27, 2020 at 4:31:09 PM UTC-5, Elaine Sigo wrote:
>>> On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 11:18:12 AM UTC-4, jtmpreno wrote:
>>>> On 8/5/2020 5:51 AM, Wade Garrett wrote:
>>>>> On 8/4/20 11:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> On Monday, 2 April 2012 04:40:21 UTC+5:30, AS wrote:
>>>>>>> From some of my devices, I am taking out Duracell batteries that I had 
>>>>>>> installed back in 2003 and 2004 with no problems; yes, they used to be 
>>>>>>> that good. I normally mark dates on the batteries with a black marker. 
>>>>>>> The thing is, Duracell is not going back to be close to any of my 
>>>>>>> devices. After replacing the older batteries, new Duracell batteries 
>>>>>>> with power left in them, and within months of installation, have been 
>>>>>>> leaking. So far the crappy Duracells have ruined the following items 
>>>>>>> for me, both at home (h) and in the office (o); the prices for the 
>>>>>>> damaged items are approximate to what they cost:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 2 Small adding/printing Canon calculators (o) $15 both
>>>>>>> 1 TI-89 Calculator (h) $150
>>>>>>> 2 300g x0.01 g jewelry scales (o) $20 both
>>>>>>> 1 Craftsman Engine Analyzer (h) $130 or so
>>>>>>> 1 Gilmour Garden Watering Timer (h) $38
>>>>>>> 2 "9 LED" flashlights (h) $6 both
>>>>>>> 1 2D cell Maglite Flashlight (h) $35
>>>>>>> 1 3D cell Maglite Flashlight (o) $45
>>>>>>> 1 2AA cell Maglite flashlight (mom's) $20
>>>>>>> 1 Analog Multimeter (h) $20
>>>>>>> 1 Garmin GPS12 (h) $150
>>>>>>> 1 Remote for HDTV top set box (h) $40 for the box and remote
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> In most cases, the devices stopped working not because the batteries 
>>>>>>> were dead, but because the leak had corroded and ruined the device's 
>>>>>>> battery contacts.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> The batteries affected are AA, AAA, D and 9V types. A couple of 9V
>>>>>>> batteries, with less than one year of installed in smoke detectors, 
>>>>>>> were replaced as soon as the detectors began beeping. Those batteries 
>>>>>>> were swollen and had open seams. About a month ago, I took one from a 
>>>>>>> smoke detector dated 2004.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> The defective batteries have come from different large size packs
>>>>>>> bought both at BJ's club or local reputable retailers.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I wonder why Consumer Reports continues to say that Duracell
>>>>>>> Batteries are good. Are they blind? Is Duracell selling the crappy 
>>>>>>> batteries in the south east US only?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Thanks for paying attention to my rant.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> It is happening with me also and has let to a loss for remote mouse
>>>>>> keyboard wall clock alrm clock and many more
>>>>>> 
>>>>> +1
>>>>> 
>>>> Yes it happens to me, too, and has been for several years. I switched to
>>>> Duracell because Kirkland (Costco) batteries were much worse.
>>>> 
>>>> When I am not going to use something for awhile I take the batteries out.
>>>> 
>>>> When they do leak in the device I use one or more Q-Tips soaked in
>>>> alcohol to remove the electrolyte.
>>>> 
>>>> Then I use 0000 steel wool to clean the battery contacts. I have always
>>>> been able to bring a device back to life that way.
>>>> 
>>>> About the 9V batteries in smoke alarms. Your problem might not be the
>>>> batteries.
>>>> 
>>>> My house came with several old Kidde smoke alarms, the type that run on
>>>> 120VAC, have a backup battery, and are all connected together so that
>>>> with one alarm goes off they all go off.
>>>> 
>>>> They would do that occasionally, always when I was sleeping. Even when
>>>> it was in the middle of the afternoon.
>>>> 
>>>> When I checked the batteries one of them would be much higher than 9V,
>>>> like 10 Volts.
>>>> 
>>>> The smoke alarms were putting current *into* the battery.
>>>> 
>>>> Generally most batteries are rechargeable but recharging a battery
>>>> produces some heat. The heat causes the pressure in the battery to
>>>> increase. If a battery is designed to be rechargeable it is designed to
>>>> handle the heat and also has a pressure release valve if it gets too hot.
>>>> 
>>>> Batteries that are not designed to be rechargeable do not have to handle
>>>> the heat from recharging so they don't. They also don't have the
>>>> pressure release valve.
>>>> 
>>>> The Kidde smoke alarms were "charging" the battery, making it hot, which
>>>> increased the pressure inside the battery until the case burst.
>>>> 
>>>> I had one that outright exploded.
>>>> 
>>>> I ended up replacing all of the Kidde smoke alarms with a newer model.
>>>> It doesn't do that anymore.
>>>> 
>>>> (All smoke alarms come with at least some reviews that say they go off
>>>> occasionally for no reason. Some of those reviews come from shills who
>>>> are hired by companies to praise the company's products and trash the
>>>> competitor's products.)
>>>> 
>>>> When my new(er) Kidde smoke alarms need to be replaced I will replace
>>>> them with the ones that operate solely on their battery and come with a
>>>> 10-year battery.
>>>> 
>>>> Smoke alarms are so loud they don't need to be networked.
>> Yes i bought a 10 pack of the AA batters and when i opened the pack 
>> they were all bad and everyone had leaked out .  I just got some AAA  
>> the same time when i opened them they were the same  .  Don't BUY 
>> DURACELL BATTERS!!!!!
> 
> Yeah, especially if you buy ones dated 2008 from the back of a gypsy 
> wagon passing though town ;-)

If you're buying piles of Duracell AA or AAA batteries to use in your 
Subaru, then you shouldn't complain when you get what you paid for. Get 
a proper car battery instead. ;-)