Re: Anyone else having problems with Duracell batteries?
Your Name <[email protected]> Sat, 18 Dec 2021 14:02:16 +1300
| Newsgroups | alt.autos.subaru |
|---|---|
| Organization | Aioe.org NNTP Server |
| Message-ID | <[email protected]> |
On 2021-12-18 00:11:19 +0000, Wade Garrett said: > On 12/17/21 11:14 AM, Larry Hornsby wrote: >> On Tuesday, October 27, 2020 at 4:31:09 PM UTC-5, Elaine Sigo wrote: >>> On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 11:18:12 AM UTC-4, jtmpreno wrote: >>>> On 8/5/2020 5:51 AM, Wade Garrett wrote: >>>>> On 8/4/20 11:08 PM, [email protected] wrote: >>>>>> On Monday, 2 April 2012 04:40:21 UTC+5:30, AS wrote: >>>>>>> From some of my devices, I am taking out Duracell batteries that I had >>>>>>> installed back in 2003 and 2004 with no problems; yes, they used to be >>>>>>> that good. I normally mark dates on the batteries with a black marker. >>>>>>> The thing is, Duracell is not going back to be close to any of my >>>>>>> devices. After replacing the older batteries, new Duracell batteries >>>>>>> with power left in them, and within months of installation, have been >>>>>>> leaking. So far the crappy Duracells have ruined the following items >>>>>>> for me, both at home (h) and in the office (o); the prices for the >>>>>>> damaged items are approximate to what they cost: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 2 Small adding/printing Canon calculators (o) $15 both >>>>>>> 1 TI-89 Calculator (h) $150 >>>>>>> 2 300g x0.01 g jewelry scales (o) $20 both >>>>>>> 1 Craftsman Engine Analyzer (h) $130 or so >>>>>>> 1 Gilmour Garden Watering Timer (h) $38 >>>>>>> 2 "9 LED" flashlights (h) $6 both >>>>>>> 1 2D cell Maglite Flashlight (h) $35 >>>>>>> 1 3D cell Maglite Flashlight (o) $45 >>>>>>> 1 2AA cell Maglite flashlight (mom's) $20 >>>>>>> 1 Analog Multimeter (h) $20 >>>>>>> 1 Garmin GPS12 (h) $150 >>>>>>> 1 Remote for HDTV top set box (h) $40 for the box and remote >>>>>>> >>>>>>> In most cases, the devices stopped working not because the batteries >>>>>>> were dead, but because the leak had corroded and ruined the device's >>>>>>> battery contacts. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The batteries affected are AA, AAA, D and 9V types. A couple of 9V >>>>>>> batteries, with less than one year of installed in smoke detectors, >>>>>>> were replaced as soon as the detectors began beeping. Those batteries >>>>>>> were swollen and had open seams. About a month ago, I took one from a >>>>>>> smoke detector dated 2004. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The defective batteries have come from different large size packs >>>>>>> bought both at BJ's club or local reputable retailers. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I wonder why Consumer Reports continues to say that Duracell >>>>>>> Batteries are good. Are they blind? Is Duracell selling the crappy >>>>>>> batteries in the south east US only? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Thanks for paying attention to my rant. >>>>>> >>>>>> It is happening with me also and has let to a loss for remote mouse >>>>>> keyboard wall clock alrm clock and many more >>>>>> >>>>> +1 >>>>> >>>> Yes it happens to me, too, and has been for several years. I switched to >>>> Duracell because Kirkland (Costco) batteries were much worse. >>>> >>>> When I am not going to use something for awhile I take the batteries out. >>>> >>>> When they do leak in the device I use one or more Q-Tips soaked in >>>> alcohol to remove the electrolyte. >>>> >>>> Then I use 0000 steel wool to clean the battery contacts. I have always >>>> been able to bring a device back to life that way. >>>> >>>> About the 9V batteries in smoke alarms. Your problem might not be the >>>> batteries. >>>> >>>> My house came with several old Kidde smoke alarms, the type that run on >>>> 120VAC, have a backup battery, and are all connected together so that >>>> with one alarm goes off they all go off. >>>> >>>> They would do that occasionally, always when I was sleeping. Even when >>>> it was in the middle of the afternoon. >>>> >>>> When I checked the batteries one of them would be much higher than 9V, >>>> like 10 Volts. >>>> >>>> The smoke alarms were putting current *into* the battery. >>>> >>>> Generally most batteries are rechargeable but recharging a battery >>>> produces some heat. The heat causes the pressure in the battery to >>>> increase. If a battery is designed to be rechargeable it is designed to >>>> handle the heat and also has a pressure release valve if it gets too hot. >>>> >>>> Batteries that are not designed to be rechargeable do not have to handle >>>> the heat from recharging so they don't. They also don't have the >>>> pressure release valve. >>>> >>>> The Kidde smoke alarms were "charging" the battery, making it hot, which >>>> increased the pressure inside the battery until the case burst. >>>> >>>> I had one that outright exploded. >>>> >>>> I ended up replacing all of the Kidde smoke alarms with a newer model. >>>> It doesn't do that anymore. >>>> >>>> (All smoke alarms come with at least some reviews that say they go off >>>> occasionally for no reason. Some of those reviews come from shills who >>>> are hired by companies to praise the company's products and trash the >>>> competitor's products.) >>>> >>>> When my new(er) Kidde smoke alarms need to be replaced I will replace >>>> them with the ones that operate solely on their battery and come with a >>>> 10-year battery. >>>> >>>> Smoke alarms are so loud they don't need to be networked. >> Yes i bought a 10 pack of the AA batters and when i opened the pack >> they were all bad and everyone had leaked out . I just got some AAA >> the same time when i opened them they were the same . Don't BUY >> DURACELL BATTERS!!!!! > > Yeah, especially if you buy ones dated 2008 from the back of a gypsy > wagon passing though town ;-) If you're buying piles of Duracell AA or AAA batteries to use in your Subaru, then you shouldn't complain when you get what you paid for. Get a proper car battery instead. ;-)