Download Raw Footage To Color Grade

This week I experimented with video for the first time. The first thing I noticed is that handheld is almost impossible (even with OIS in the lenses) but that's what I expected so I'm not disappointed. I also have a tripod to stabilise the footage. So I played around with film simulations, Eterna, flog, color grading and I have no idea what I'm doing.


1) How do you shoot videos with the X-T3? Does it make sense for a beginner to shoot flog/eterna and learn color grading / color correction or is it better to just use one of the film simulations or the standard provia setting?



download raw footage to color grade

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3) In post I tried to use the Fuji LUT (Flog to Eterna) and the colors still look way off. Then I realized that Eterna needs further grading. Do I need to color correct before applying the LUT? What to change before I convert to Eterna? And then... how to proceed?


4) I've watched many youtube videos and read quite a few tutorials about color grading / color correction and still have no idea what I'm doing. So if I want to learn about it ... is there a good book about it? Or a good online course? I use Final Cut Pro X 10.4.7. Is it worth to pay for a course like this: -grading-masterclass-pre-order/ - or is it a waste of money? Is there a better alternative? Wich one?


5) Is it worth to pay for something like Film Convert? I don't really understand what it gives me since the X-T3 already has film simulations... I guess the color grading in Final Cut Pro is easily good enough for me, right?


4 In my experience, learning by doing is the best way to learn. Get in there and follow a youtube tutorial on some pre-made footage. Actually DO the tutorial. Even if everything in it isn't applicable to what you want, the tutorial should be a good workflow for you.


It sounds like you've been dwelling on this for a while. Go out and make a video! Make something in eterna, grade it, cut it, and export it! Once you're comfortable with workflow, start dipping your toes in f-log. "small steps"... "Rome wasn't built in one day"... *wise saying about patience here*, etc....


FLOG and Eterna are definitely not the same - sounds like you know this, but just want make sure. FLOG is (typically) only used by pros at color-correcting, or those who are VERY interested in keeping as much information as possible. In my experience, Eterna is astounding, and comes off the card looking almost exactly how I want my stuff to "look". It is Fuji's most neutral "cinematic" look - controls highlights nicely. It gives you a very nice jumping off point to punch up/down color/saturation. I tend to leave it as-is, actually, as I find it truly pleasing, and don't like the "over-graded" look that is VERY popular in (most) YouTube demos these days.


I would say, ultimately, your best bet is going to be shooting some test footage and then applying different film simulations to the scenes - so shoot the same small scene multiple times, each time with a different simulation, then one with Log. Bring them into your computer and see which you think reflects the best what you want the "look" to be. Then you can always add the corresponding LUT to the FLOG clip and see how that turns out. I think it's going to depend on what kind of workflow you want to establish - is this for quick fun? Apply a setting and shoot. Is this for something you'd like ultimate control over? Shoot F-Log and then fine-tune later.






1. If you're just starting out I recommend you don't even touch F-log for a few months. The 10 bit color in the XT3 makes it at least usable, which it's not with the 8 bit XH1 that I use. The largest draw to Fuji for me was eterna. It's a fantastic grading starting point. While you're still learning the camera and getting a basic grasp of getting the footage perfect at the point of capture I'd actually say you might want to use proneg standard to start out with. That profile gives you an almost done head start that you finish with a simple and very subtle S curve and you're done.


2. Log footage really only needs to be exposed to the right in scenes where there is a fair amount of shadows. Otherwise expose normally and that goes for all profiles with Fuji. The exposure meter on the fuji is generally very good and unlike some other camera brands where exposing to the right is recommended, Fuji generally looks worse if u over expose you footage. As for a cloud rolling over the sun and changing the lighting you've got to ask yourself this question, "what looks worse?" A. Exposure ramping via auto ISO. B. Possible camera shake from adjusting a knob on the camera or even worse turning a variable ND filter. C. A couple seconds of under exposure while the sun is blocked by a cloud. Ultimately you've got to answer that for yourself but for my taste I'd choose C or A.


3. You would apply the LUT to an adjustment layer over the footage and then add an adjustment layer above that to do your final grading. Once again, starting from at least Eterna doesn't give you this problem.


The proper execution of the card is to set the WB with it in the environment of the subject, so in your situation you would set the target in the shaded area. With that said I'd encourage you not to get so technical that you either shoot less or not have fun doing it. If you need it to be perfect, use the card. If close enough is good enough then just manually set a K value that looks close to right. It's not as if you have no flexibility to change the tones of your footage. You can bend it a little without breaking it. I personally like targeting my WB because I can't stand playing the color shifting game in post and hope I've gotten it accurate, especially when it's critical.


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