On 8/27/2020 9:58 AM, Paul wrote:
> s wrote:
>>
>> My nephew is 14 and living in another state who wants to build his own
>> computer.
>>
>> I sent following YouTube videos for him to watch and learn how to do it.
>>
>>
>> Build a PC - Step-by-step
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhX0fOUYd8Q
>>
>> Beginners Guide - Build a PC
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVmcD8v3vR4
>>
>> How To Build a $500 Gaming PC
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFyhn6seoow
>>
>> The idea is to assemble a basic PC using which he can do homework,
>> learn new topics etc.
>>
>> Would the following parts be compatible to buy, assemble?
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Transparent-Adjustable-Ventilated/dp/B0785GRMPG/
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Certified-Continuous-cooling-PS-SPD-0500NPCWUS-W/dp/B014W3EM2W/
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-3-5-Inch/dp/B07D99KFPK/
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18/
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-PC4-28800-Desktop-Memory/dp/B07RM39V5F/
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1386MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DFD6/dp/B06Y66K3XD/
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-X570-Plus-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B07SXF8GY3/
>>
>>
>> I would appreciate any suggestions
>>
>> Thanks
>
> I agree with John McGaw. Find a tiny SSD for a boot drive.
> Backups or other materials (call this secondary storage) should
> go on a spinner.
>
> If a person has no other desktop computers, they don't really
> have a lot of secondary storage. And the owner should develop
> good backup habits, to handle the bugs that the 2020 "rolling release"
> world brings with it. You can't rely on the OS settings to be
> doing anything right (the settings can change on their own),
> so it is up to you to apply whip and chair to maintain some
> level of control of your three-ring circus.
>
> If configured right, the backup drive can also be set up to
> be a boot drive (for emergency boot). For situations where the
> computer stopped booting on the SSD ("Windows Update" indigestion).
>
> For Windows 10, the SSD could be as small as 45GB and you
> could get by with that. You don't have to spend a lot of
> money on it if you don't want to. At the 128GB level,
> some SSD drives do that with a single flash chip inside.
>
> *******
>
> Q300L user manual.
>
> http://us.coolermaster.com/xresserver01-DLFILE-en1802270001d673-F19011400073262.html
>
>
> Looks like it has room to install one spinning drive (on a mounting plate),
> plus multiple SSD drives. It almost looks like the HDD mount is on the
> back of the tray, whereas SSD drives are on the back and the front
> of the tray. HDDs are "stable on six axis", the compass points,
> so can be mounted that way. I slide drives in and out of the computer
> all day long, so such an arrangement (bolting to tray) would make me
> crazy :-)
>
> If you use the machine for any sort of Technician Machine (like,
> backing up a friends hard drive to your hard drive), having
> two trays for drives would be a minimum. Buying external enclosures
> is an unnecessary expense. But, I suppose this borders on a
> "life style issue" as much as anything else. The case "meets a
> minimum requirement".
>
> Generally, I find with computer cases, that you can easily enter
> from one side, but if maintenance involves visiting the front
> (via glass door) or the back (rear mounted items like HDD),
> you can do that if the PC is sitting on a table, but other
> seating arrangements for the PC make this more difficult.
> The absolute worst case you could be buying, would be a scissor case,
> where it has a hinge on the bottom and the two halves fold open.
> Pure misery.
>
> The PSU is on the bottom of the computer case. The very last row of
> pictures in the "manual", shows the PSU is mounted upside-down, which
> means the intake fan is facing upwards. This is only a problem in the
> following scenario.
>
> The case is porous on top. If you rest a Coke on the top of the machine,
> and you happen to spill the Coke, Coke liquid is now entering the PC.
> It pours downwards. If finds the (slowly spinning) PSU intake fan. Coke
> is splattered around line voltage components in the PSU.
>
> One poster, when I described the potential problems caused by
> "porous on top PCs", mentioned, "yeah, when I spilled some water
> in there, the PSU made a sizzling sound". And that would be for
> a PSU mounted the normal way, at the top of the PC, with
> fewer ways for liquid to get inside! It's for this reason, that
> either the individual has great discipline (never rests a drink
> on the PC), or, select a case where fluids don't find a way to do that.
> This is why all my PCs here have flat metal tops, for "shedding
> behavior". Yes, I know that mounting a radiator under the top
> of a PC is all the rage now, so I understand why they're porous
> on top.
>
> Fabrics which collect dust, need to be cleaned every three months
> or so. At least in this case, the condition of the fabric material
> is easy to check visually. Many cases hide the dust filter behind
> a door, and you have to be Houdini to get it out and clean it.
> (That's because the dust filter comes out the bottom of the PC
> via a slot down there.)
>
> There is no place in the PC for an optical drive, no way to play
> a CD someone brings over. (More expense buying a USB slim to
> retrofit.) Many people don't care about this. Fine.
>
> There's nothing wrong with the case as such, and the above is a
> "nuisance-factor analysis".
>
> *******
> PSU - check that cable length is sufficiently long, to reach from
> the PSU bay, to the various electrical loads. The back mounted
> HDD plate, might need an extension cable. Since the PSU is
> upside-down, the loom will be exiting close to the mobo tray
> and back surface of the PC. Not a problem, just a comment.
>
> The PSU could charge an iPad, if the PC is "soft-off" and
> not S3 Sleep (usual +5VSB limits). The +5V is weaker than I
> would like, but then there's no large collection of drive bays
> either, to load it down. I like PSUs to be ready for anything,
> and 3.3V 20A and 5V 20A are the minimum I use here. There is also
> a combined power limit on the two rails, and if that was 100W
> in a crappy example, then really only one rail could be fully
> loaded. On modern PCs, I don't expect the chipset load or drive
> loads, to make generous ratings there necessary any more.
> Now that the PSU has all-shrouded cables and all the wires
> are black in color... it's pretty hard for me to be measuring
> these loads with my clamp-on DC ammeter to check them. All-black
> wire is an abomination.
>
> The PSU has two PCIe connectors, so that part is as ready
> as you would like. All the rest of the determinations, depend
> on what components you add to the PC.
>
> *******
>
> https://outervision.com/b/PFGmMG
>
> One problem with that power calculator, is it doesn't give a
> breakdown of individual cards. The RX 580 could be 185W or 12V 15.5A.
> The CPU, it would all depend on whether it's overclocked, or
> whether the TDP is correct. (On Intel processors, the power
> shoots above TDP by a fair bit if AVX is being used.) That
> suggests they're allocating 12V @ 10A for the CPU (subtract
> hard drive currents from the calc). Whereas Newegg lists
> AMD Ryzen 5 3600 as 65W TDP. The outervision.com calc could
> be a little bit on the high side on the +12V. It might be 24 or
> 25 amps or so.
>
> Load Wattage: 439 W +3.3V +5V +12V
> 9.5 A 11.3 A 29.3 A
> <--- 88 W ---> 351 W
>
> I monitor my PC with a Kill-O-Watt meter, so I have
> a good idea how close to the max power it runs. It
> managed to draw 250W the other day, running Prime95 and
> some AVX code in there, and the video card would add
> 180W if I were to run Furmark. Since my VCore should
> be overheating at 250W, I didn't leave that running
> for too long :-) I think the nephews build will be
> substantially lower and well behaved. You have to go
> out of your way, to attempt to tip over this setup.
>
> *******
>
> Motherboard - X570 is fan cooled, with what could be a
> 40mm custom fan or similar. Tail of video card
> runs across the top, so the cooling design
> cannot afford to be too tall.
>
> If the fan fails... the young builder is
> going to be learning a thing or two about
> retrofitting a heatpipe cooler (and the one
> I have in mind is likely not in production now).
> On a fan failure, this might be beyond my
> pay scale to fix (no materials).
>
> If it used a standard 40mm square or 60mm square
> fan, then I'd have no argument with the design.
> As you can swap the square ones.
>
> *******
>
> Paul
Thanks Paul,
Will the fan in
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Transparent-Adjustable-Ventilated/dp/B0785GRMPG/
be enough or are more fans needed?
I appreciate the detailed response and advice.
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