Re: Ripping physically scratched CD's

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I've also had good luck with the small buffing wheel on a cordless dremel.
Small, low power, convenient.  I haven't tried compound though.


On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 8:57 PM, grarpamp <[email protected]> wrote:

> > Am 04.12.2014 um 00:11 schrieb [email protected]:
> >> You can in fact often buff out scratches from the play surface.
> >> Polish from hub to rim.  Plastic 'scratch-removal' fluids and a cotton
> >> cloth work pretty well.
>
> This works to remove typical fine grained haze and
> surface scratches. It's the car wax approach, literally.
>
> >> There's also a product called a 'CD Doctor' that's a little automated
> >> buffing machine that does the same.  It actually works.
>
> It's called a "skipdr / skip doctor", one current manufacturer is here...
> http://www.digitalinnovations.com/product-category/skipdr-disc-repair/
> They're on Amazon.
>
> They're useful for similar levels of damage. And provide a more
> consistant operation/environment than a newbie human would be
> at polishing anything.
>
> But when you need to burn out real scratches or get down into the
> polycarb past some manufacturing defect like bubbles, inclusions,
> or lensing, you need a real buffing wheel and some practiced skill.
> In good hands, a simple cotton wheel and a bit of plastic polish
> will handle anything from trivial haze to severe issues.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=buffing
>
> The operating words are "compounding / polishing / buffing". A disc
> is exactly like clearcoat on a car, only thicker. Approach the small
> or large problem area. And the more wrecked it is, the more aggressive
> initial grit correction and more polishing grades and finishing steps
> you need to apply to fix it.
> _______________________________________________
> Paranoia mailing list
> [email protected]
> http://lists.xiph.org/mailman/listinfo/paranoia
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;ve also had good luck with the small buffing wheel o=
n a cordless dremel.=C2=A0 Small, low power, convenient.=C2=A0 I haven&#39;=
t tried compound though.<div><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br=
><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 8:57 PM, grarpamp <span =
dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email protected]" target=3D"_blank">gra=
[email protected]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><sp=
an class=3D"">&gt; Am 04.12.2014 um 00:11 schrieb <a href=3D"mailto:xiphmon=
[email protected]">[email protected]</a>:<br>
</span><span class=3D"">&gt;&gt; You can in fact often buff out scratches f=
rom the play surface.<br>
&gt;&gt; Polish from hub to rim.=C2=A0 Plastic &#39;scratch-removal&#39; fl=
uids and a cotton<br>
&gt;&gt; cloth work pretty well.<br>
<br>
</span>This works to remove typical fine grained haze and<br>
surface scratches. It&#39;s the car wax approach, literally.<br>
<span class=3D""><br>
&gt;&gt; There&#39;s also a product called a &#39;CD Doctor&#39; that&#39;s=
 a little automated<br>
&gt;&gt; buffing machine that does the same.=C2=A0 It actually works.<br>
<br>
</span>It&#39;s called a &quot;skipdr / skip doctor&quot;, one current manu=
facturer is here...<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.digitalinnovations.com/product-category/skipdr-disc-r=
epair/" target=3D"_blank">http://www.digitalinnovations.com/product-categor=
y/skipdr-disc-repair/</a><br>
They&#39;re on Amazon.<br>
<br>
They&#39;re useful for similar levels of damage. And provide a more<br>
consistant operation/environment than a newbie human would be<br>
at polishing anything.<br>
<br>
But when you need to burn out real scratches or get down into the<br>
polycarb past some manufacturing defect like bubbles, inclusions,<br>
or lensing, you need a real buffing wheel and some practiced skill.<br>
In good hands, a simple cotton wheel and a bit of plastic polish<br>
will handle anything from trivial haze to severe issues.<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=3Dbuffing" t=
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=3Dbuff=
ing</a><br>
<br>
The operating words are &quot;compounding / polishing / buffing&quot;. A di=
sc<br>
is exactly like clearcoat on a car, only thicker. Approach the small<br>
or large problem area. And the more wrecked it is, the more aggressive<br>
initial grit correction and more polishing grades and finishing steps<br>
you need to apply to fix it.<br>
<div class=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5">___________________________________=
____________<br>
Paranoia mailing list<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email protected]">[email protected]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://lists.xiph.org/mailman/listinfo/paranoia" target=3D"_blan=
k">http://lists.xiph.org/mailman/listinfo/paranoia</a><br>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>

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