Build-your-own IBM Selectric typewriter with Dvorak keyboard!

Dear List Members,

Back in early 2003, when I was starting the process of learning how 
to touch-type (on the qwerty keyboard) with my first computer, I 
stumbled upon some online information about the Dvorak keyboard. I 
was intrigued, and after some careful consideration I decided to go a 
different direction from the crowd and type with the Dvorak keyboard. 
I don't regret the decision at all. 

At some point back in 2004 it occurred to me that despite my learning 
how to type, I would probably never have the satisfaction of typing 
on a real typewriter, because there is no such thing as a typewriter 
with the Dvorak keyboard, right? Wrong! I soon learned that various 
companies manufactured typewriters over the years with the dvorak 
keyboard. Long story short, I managed to find a few of these rare 
machines. I invite you to have a look at my collection of Dvorak 
typewriters in the photos section of this group.

For me, there is something about typewriters that is appealing. Maybe 
it's because they're an anachronistic throwback to another time. 
Maybe it's because they're mechanical and hence interesting. Or maybe 
it's just the image of a typewriter that's romantic. That's why I 
like all of my typewriters. But of all my machines, it's the IBM 
Selectric that I am most fond of. For those of you not familiar with 
the Selectric, it is a highly complex electric typewriter that 
utilizes a spherical type element with the characters on it instead 
of the individual type-bars of conventional machines.

Introduced by IBM in 1961, the Selectric was nothing short of 
revolutionary. The new machines were so far superior to what was on 
the market, it really marked the beginning of the end for 
conventional type-bar typewriters. They were--and are--fascinating 
machines. By the time production ceased in 1985, it was becoming too 
expensive for IBM to manufacture such complicated mechanical 
typewriters especially when the Wheelwriter series cost much less to 
build. Nevertheless, tens of thousands of Selectrics remain in use 
today, and they have a commanded a loyal following.

Now, here's the really interesting thing about the Selectric 
typewriter: the way the machine is designed, it is relatively easy 
(if you know what you're doing, that is) to convert it from the 
qwerty keyboard to the Dvorak keyboard. A former IBM engineer in 
Oregon turned me on to this fact back when I was scouring the nation 
for a typewriter with the dvorak keyboard. This same guy offered to 
convert a refurbished Selectric II to the Dvorak keyboard for $500. 
That was way too much money, so I politely declined. But the seed of 
interest had been planted. A couple years later, I decided to take on 
the challenge of converting a Selectric myself. In short order I 
assembled the necessary tools and technical manuals to do the job. 

My guinea pig machine for the initial effort was a dirty, beat-up 
Selectric II that I found at the local Salvation Army store for $3. 
Without too much difficulty, I went ahead and performed the 
conversion, and the operation was a success. It was a very 
interesting learning experience. I still have that ugly Selectric II, 
but it doesn't get much use; I have since converted two much nicer 
Selectric III's to use at the office and at home. Here's a shot of 
one of them:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/SelIII.JPG

If anyone on this list would be interested in converting their own 
IBM Selectric to Dvorak, I have prepared a tutorial package 
explaining how to do it. The package consists of a tools list (tools 
not included, sorry) and detailed step-by-step instructions (22 pages 
complete with color photos), a CD-Rom of slides covering operational 
theory and disassembly of the keyboard area of the machine, and an 
accompanying audio cassette tape for the CD-Rom. 

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/guide.JPG

This is surely the only place on the internet (and probably the 
planet) where this type of information is available. In order to 
cover development costs, I am asking $50 for the package (postage 
included) for members within the United States, and $60 the package 
(postage included) for members outside the United States. Contents of 
the tutorial package are copyright protected.

The conversion itself is pretty straightforward. There are obviously 
many small details I can't go into here, but basically the conversion 
involves:

1) Removal of the typewriter from its case;
2) Removal of the plastic keytops;
3) Partial disassembly of the keyboard;
4) Removal and re-arrangement of the character interposers;
5) Re-assembly of the keyboard;
6) Re-installation of the plastic keytops;
7) Putting the typewriter back into its case.

Although any Selectric can be converted, I would recommend the 
Selectric III for one important reason: the plastic keytops can be 
removed and re-arranged into the dvorak configuration and they will 
still sit at the correct angle. The same CANNOT be said for the level 
I and level II machines. Those machines have deeply dished keytops 
that are angled uniquely according to what row they are in. If you re-
arrange them, they end up looking and feeling weird. Oh sure, you 
could leave them in their original position and re-label them using 
aftermarket keytop labels, but I don't think it would look very good. 
And besides, it would defeat the whole point of the exercise, which 
is to build a stealth Selectric that looks as though it came right 
from the factory with the Dvorak keyboard.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/SelIII2.JPG

Since I'm on the subject of the machines themselves, let me go into a 
little bit of detail about the only two design concessions involved 
in the Dvorak conversion. Every stock Selectric has special "repeat 
lug" on the bottom of the hyphen/underscore keylever which allows 
automatic repeat action when that key is depressed 2X farther than 
normal. Because the keylevers are not moved during the conversion, 
this repeat lug will end up being on the ¼ ½ keylever. Unfortunately 
it is not possible to re-locate this repeat lug to the new 
hyphen/underscore keylever in the home row. The lug has to stay where 
it is, with the result that the ¼ ½ key in the top row will end up 
having the repeating function. In my mind, this is certainly not a 
big deal. The ¼ ½ key is seldom if ever used, and if you don't press 
it down farther than normal, it won't repeat anyway. If this would 
really bother you, then the repeat function would have to be 
disabled. This is done by temporarily taking that keylever out of the 
machine and removing the repeat lug by grinding the rivet off with a 
Dremel tool. But in order to remove the keylever from the machine, 
you need a spare keylever fulcrum wire. So, my advice would be to 
simply leave the repeat lug where it is. 

The other design concession concerns the "dual velocity" feature of 
the machine. All Selectrics (apart from early models) were designed 
so that the type element would strike the paper with less force when 
the "low velocity characters" were typed. (The low velocity 
characters consist of the period, comma, quote marks, colon/semi-
colon, and hyphen/underscore.) The idea was to prevent the paper from 
being cut since the low velocity characters have less surface area 
than the other characters. This is accomplished by means of a fairly 
simple linkage between a low velocity vane at the front of the 
keyboard (which is only rotated when the low velocity characters are 
typed) and the print cam follower at the type-head. 

When a low velocity character is typed, the interposer for that 
character is pushed forward and contacts and rotates the low velocity 
vane, which by means of a connecting linkage releases the low 
velocity latch, which allows the low velocity cam follower to contact 
(and follow) the low velocity cam on the end of the filter shaft for 
the duration of that print cycle. The other end of the low velocity 
cam follower pulls on the end of the low velocity control cable, the 
other end of which is connected to the roller of the print cam 
follower. The roller of the print cam follower is thus pulled to the 
left and made to ride on the low velocity lobe of the print cam.

Follow all that? Good. Here's what it boils down to, though. The dual 
velocity system was a good idea, and it works. But realistically, it 
was very common for machines in the field to be operating with broken 
or seized low velocity cables, with the result that all characters 
would be printing at full velocity. Most of the time the operators 
were not even aware that anything was wrong. For anyone doing this 
conversion, the best way to address this issue is to simply cut the 
low velocity control cable where it connects to the low velocity cam 
follower. This will disable the system, and all characters will print 
at full velocity. It won't make one iota of difference unless you 
type on really thin paper (like onion skin). Just keep the impression 
control stick on 1 or 2, and you'll be fine. If you really, really 
wanted to have the low velocity characters print at low velocity 
after the conversion, you'd have to fabricate a new, longer low 
velocity vane with a different lug pattern. I did this twice for the 
two Selectric III's that I converted, and trust me, it's a gigantic 
pain in the butt. It's not really worth the effort.

If you're still reading this, you're probably wondering, "would I be 
able to perform this conversion?" Well, I would say that if you're 
the type of person who knows nothing about tools and is not 
mechanically inclined at all, then you probably don't want to attempt 
this. But, if you're the type of person who likes to tinker with 
things, and is by nature mechanically inclined, then you should be 
fine. 

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/BenchIV.JPG

Be forewarned, though, you have to be patient to do this conversion, 
you need to be able to follow steps carefully, and you need to have 
the ability and organization to deal with a fair number of small, 
delicate parts without losing or damaging them. The conversion 
doesn't involve major disassembly of the machine; all of the work is 
confined to the keyboard area, and only a couple of adjustments have 
to be broken during the process. (And they are easily put back into 
adjustment).

If this conversion is something you would like to do, contact me off-
list, and I'll get you set up with the conversion package. Trust me, 
if you like typewriters, the conversion is certainly worth the 
trouble. The end result is a fabulous machine that will make a very 
handsome addition to your desk. Talk about a great conversation 
starter, too.

Once you start using a typewriter, you realize how handy it is to 
type up little things like rolodex cards, hanging file tabs, notes to 
your editor, love letters to your sweetheart, etc. It really IS the 
ultimate accessory for the dedicated Dvorak typist!
--Peter