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--RndDrSCbLUsjAfgZ0gUHVlZyrcHPNy0YODSaDuf
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Hi everyone,
I've been trying to find a DVORAK typewriter everywhere, and after a lot of=
research I've ended up here.
I tried contacting Peter so I could purchase his tutorial package but I hav=
en't heard back. Does anyone know if he's still active? Does he have a diff=
erent email address I could use to contact him? Does anyone know where else=
I could get a tutorial such as this?
Many thanks,
Lucas
--- In [email protected], "pbrun01" <pbrun01@...> wrote:
>
> Dear List Members,
>=20
> Back in early 2003, when I was starting the process of learning how=20
> to touch-type (on the qwerty keyboard) with my first computer, I=20
> stumbled upon some online information about the Dvorak keyboard. I=20
> was intrigued, and after some careful consideration I decided to go a=20
> different direction from the crowd and type with the Dvorak keyboard.=20
> I don't regret the decision at all.=20
>=20
> At some point back in 2004 it occurred to me that despite my learning=20
> how to type, I would probably never have the satisfaction of typing=20
> on a real typewriter, because there is no such thing as a typewriter=20
> with the Dvorak keyboard, right? Wrong! I soon learned that various=20
> companies manufactured typewriters over the years with the dvorak=20
> keyboard. Long story short, I managed to find a few of these rare=20
> machines. I invite you to have a look at my collection of Dvorak=20
> typewriters in the photos section of this group.
>=20
> For me, there is something about typewriters that is appealing. Maybe=20
> it's because they're an anachronistic throwback to another time.=20
> Maybe it's because they're mechanical and hence interesting. Or maybe=20
> it's just the image of a typewriter that's romantic. That's why I=20
> like all of my typewriters. But of all my machines, it's the IBM=20
> Selectric that I am most fond of. For those of you not familiar with=20
> the Selectric, it is a highly complex electric typewriter that=20
> utilizes a spherical type element with the characters on it instead=20
> of the individual type-bars of conventional machines.
>=20
> Introduced by IBM in 1961, the Selectric was nothing short of=20
> revolutionary. The new machines were so far superior to what was on=20
> the market, it really marked the beginning of the end for=20
> conventional type-bar typewriters. They were--and are--fascinating=20
> machines. By the time production ceased in 1985, it was becoming too=20
> expensive for IBM to manufacture such complicated mechanical=20
> typewriters especially when the Wheelwriter series cost much less to=20
> build. Nevertheless, tens of thousands of Selectrics remain in use=20
> today, and they have a commanded a loyal following.
>=20
> Now, here's the really interesting thing about the Selectric=20
> typewriter: the way the machine is designed, it is relatively easy=20
> (if you know what you're doing, that is) to convert it from the=20
> qwerty keyboard to the Dvorak keyboard. A former IBM engineer in=20
> Oregon turned me on to this fact back when I was scouring the nation=20
> for a typewriter with the dvorak keyboard. This same guy offered to=20
> convert a refurbished Selectric II to the Dvorak keyboard for $500.=20
> That was way too much money, so I politely declined. But the seed of=20
> interest had been planted. A couple years later, I decided to take on=20
> the challenge of converting a Selectric myself. In short order I=20
> assembled the necessary tools and technical manuals to do the job.=20
>=20
> My guinea pig machine for the initial effort was a dirty, beat-up=20
> Selectric II that I found at the local Salvation Army store for $3.=20
> Without too much difficulty, I went ahead and performed the=20
> conversion, and the operation was a success. It was a very=20
> interesting learning experience. I still have that ugly Selectric II,=20
> but it doesn't get much use; I have since converted two much nicer=20
> Selectric III's to use at the office and at home. Here's a shot of=20
> one of them:
>=20
> http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/SelIII.JPG
>=20
> If anyone on this list would be interested in converting their own=20
> IBM Selectric to Dvorak, I have prepared a tutorial package=20
> explaining how to do it. The package consists of a tools list (tools=20
> not included, sorry) and detailed step-by-step instructions (22 pages=20
> complete with color photos), a CD-Rom of slides covering operational=20
> theory and disassembly of the keyboard area of the machine, and an=20
> accompanying audio cassette tape for the CD-Rom.=20
>=20
> http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/guide.JPG
>=20
> This is surely the only place on the internet (and probably the=20
> planet) where this type of information is available. In order to=20
> cover development costs, I am asking $50 for the package (postage=20
> included) for members within the United States, and $60 the package=20
> (postage included) for members outside the United States. Contents of=20
> the tutorial package are copyright protected.
>=20
> The conversion itself is pretty straightforward. There are obviously=20
> many small details I can't go into here, but basically the conversion=20
> involves:
>=20
> 1) Removal of the typewriter from its case;
> 2) Removal of the plastic keytops;
> 3) Partial disassembly of the keyboard;
> 4) Removal and re-arrangement of the character interposers;
> 5) Re-assembly of the keyboard;
> 6) Re-installation of the plastic keytops;
> 7) Putting the typewriter back into its case.
>=20
> Although any Selectric can be converted, I would recommend the=20
> Selectric III for one important reason: the plastic keytops can be=20
> removed and re-arranged into the dvorak configuration and they will=20
> still sit at the correct angle. The same CANNOT be said for the level=20
> I and level II machines. Those machines have deeply dished keytops=20
> that are angled uniquely according to what row they are in. If you re-
> arrange them, they end up looking and feeling weird. Oh sure, you=20
> could leave them in their original position and re-label them using=20
> aftermarket keytop labels, but I don't think it would look very good.=20
> And besides, it would defeat the whole point of the exercise, which=20
> is to build a stealth Selectric that looks as though it came right=20
> from the factory with the Dvorak keyboard.
>=20
> http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/SelIII2.JPG
>=20
> Since I'm on the subject of the machines themselves, let me go into a=20
> little bit of detail about the only two design concessions involved=20
> in the Dvorak conversion. Every stock Selectric has special "repeat=20
> lug" on the bottom of the hyphen/underscore keylever which allows=20
> automatic repeat action when that key is depressed 2X farther than=20
> normal. Because the keylevers are not moved during the conversion,=20
> this repeat lug will end up being on the =BC =BD keylever. Unfortunately=
=20
> it is not possible to re-locate this repeat lug to the new=20
> hyphen/underscore keylever in the home row. The lug has to stay where=20
> it is, with the result that the =BC =BD key in the top row will end up=20
> having the repeating function. In my mind, this is certainly not a=20
> big deal. The =BC =BD key is seldom if ever used, and if you don't press=
=20
> it down farther than normal, it won't repeat anyway. If this would=20
> really bother you, then the repeat function would have to be=20
> disabled. This is done by temporarily taking that keylever out of the=20
> machine and removing the repeat lug by grinding the rivet off with a=20
> Dremel tool. But in order to remove the keylever from the machine,=20
> you need a spare keylever fulcrum wire. So, my advice would be to=20
> simply leave the repeat lug where it is.=20
>=20
> The other design concession concerns the "dual velocity" feature of=20
> the machine. All Selectrics (apart from early models) were designed=20
> so that the type element would strike the paper with less force when=20
> the "low velocity characters" were typed. (The low velocity=20
> characters consist of the period, comma, quote marks, colon/semi-
> colon, and hyphen/underscore.) The idea was to prevent the paper from=20
> being cut since the low velocity characters have less surface area=20
> than the other characters. This is accomplished by means of a fairly=20
> simple linkage between a low velocity vane at the front of the=20
> keyboard (which is only rotated when the low velocity characters are=20
> typed) and the print cam follower at the type-head.=20
>=20
> When a low velocity character is typed, the interposer for that=20
> character is pushed forward and contacts and rotates the low velocity=20
> vane, which by means of a connecting linkage releases the low=20
> velocity latch, which allows the low velocity cam follower to contact=20
> (and follow) the low velocity cam on the end of the filter shaft for=20
> the duration of that print cycle. The other end of the low velocity=20
> cam follower pulls on the end of the low velocity control cable, the=20
> other end of which is connected to the roller of the print cam=20
> follower. The roller of the print cam follower is thus pulled to the=20
> left and made to ride on the low velocity lobe of the print cam.
>=20
> Follow all that? Good. Here's what it boils down to, though. The dual=20
> velocity system was a good idea, and it works. But realistically, it=20
> was very common for machines in the field to be operating with broken=20
> or seized low velocity cables, with the result that all characters=20
> would be printing at full velocity. Most of the time the operators=20
> were not even aware that anything was wrong. For anyone doing this=20
> conversion, the best way to address this issue is to simply cut the=20
> low velocity control cable where it connects to the low velocity cam=20
> follower. This will disable the system, and all characters will print=20
> at full velocity. It won't make one iota of difference unless you=20
> type on really thin paper (like onion skin). Just keep the impression=20
> control stick on 1 or 2, and you'll be fine. If you really, really=20
> wanted to have the low velocity characters print at low velocity=20
> after the conversion, you'd have to fabricate a new, longer low=20
> velocity vane with a different lug pattern. I did this twice for the=20
> two Selectric III's that I converted, and trust me, it's a gigantic=20
> pain in the butt. It's not really worth the effort.
>=20
> If you're still reading this, you're probably wondering, "would I be=20
> able to perform this conversion?" Well, I would say that if you're=20
> the type of person who knows nothing about tools and is not=20
> mechanically inclined at all, then you probably don't want to attempt=20
> this. But, if you're the type of person who likes to tinker with=20
> things, and is by nature mechanically inclined, then you should be=20
> fine.=20
>=20
> http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/BenchIV.JPG
>=20
> Be forewarned, though, you have to be patient to do this conversion,=20
> you need to be able to follow steps carefully, and you need to have=20
> the ability and organization to deal with a fair number of small,=20
> delicate parts without losing or damaging them. The conversion=20
> doesn't involve major disassembly of the machine; all of the work is=20
> confined to the keyboard area, and only a couple of adjustments have=20
> to be broken during the process. (And they are easily put back into=20
> adjustment).
>=20
> If this conversion is something you would like to do, contact me off-
> list, and I'll get you set up with the conversion package. Trust me,=20
> if you like typewriters, the conversion is certainly worth the=20
> trouble. The end result is a fabulous machine that will make a very=20
> handsome addition to your desk. Talk about a great conversation=20
> starter, too.
>=20
> Once you start using a typewriter, you realize how handy it is to=20
> type up little things like rolodex cards, hanging file tabs, notes to=20
> your editor, love letters to your sweetheart, etc. It really IS the=20
> ultimate accessory for the dedicated Dvorak typist!
> --Peter
>
--RndDrSCbLUsjAfgZ0gUHVlZyrcHPNy0YODSaDuf
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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<head>
</head>
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<span style=3D"display:none"> </span>
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=20=20=20=20=20=20
=20=20=20=20=20=20
<p>Hi everyone,<br>
<br>
I've been trying to find a DVORAK typewriter everywhere, and after a lot of=
research I've ended up here.<br>
<br>
I tried contacting Peter so I could purchase his tutorial package but I hav=
en't heard back. Does anyone know if he's still active? Does he have a diff=
erent email address I could use to contact him? Does anyone know where else=
I could get a tutorial such as this?<br>
<br>
Many thanks,<br>
Lucas<br>
<br>
--- In <a href=3D"mailto:altkeyboards%40yahoogroups.com">altkeyboards@yahoo=
groups.com</a>, "pbrun01" <pbrun01@...> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Dear List Members,<br>
> <br>
> Back in early 2003, when I was starting the process of learning how <b=
r>
> to touch-type (on the qwerty keyboard) with my first computer, I <br>
> stumbled upon some online information about the Dvorak keyboard. I <br=
>
> was intrigued, and after some careful consideration I decided to go a =
<br>
> different direction from the crowd and type with the Dvorak keyboard. =
<br>
> I don't regret the decision at all. <br>
> <br>
> At some point back in 2004 it occurred to me that despite my learning =
<br>
> how to type, I would probably never have the satisfaction of typing <b=
r>
> on a real typewriter, because there is no such thing as a typewriter <=
br>
> with the Dvorak keyboard, right? Wrong! I soon learned that various <b=
r>
> companies manufactured typewriters over the years with the dvorak <br>
> keyboard. Long story short, I managed to find a few of these rare <br>
> machines. I invite you to have a look at my collection of Dvorak <br>
> typewriters in the photos section of this group.<br>
> <br>
> For me, there is something about typewriters that is appealing. Maybe =
<br>
> it's because they're an anachronistic throwback to another time. <br>
> Maybe it's because they're mechanical and hence interesting. Or maybe =
<br>
> it's just the image of a typewriter that's romantic. That's why I <br>
> like all of my typewriters. But of all my machines, it's the IBM <br>
> Selectric that I am most fond of. For those of you not familiar with <=
br>
> the Selectric, it is a highly complex electric typewriter that <br>
> utilizes a spherical type element with the characters on it instead <b=
r>
> of the individual type-bars of conventional machines.<br>
> <br>
> Introduced by IBM in 1961, the Selectric was nothing short of <br>
> revolutionary. The new machines were so far superior to what was on <b=
r>
> the market, it really marked the beginning of the end for <br>
> conventional type-bar typewriters. They were--and are--fascinating <br=
>
> machines. By the time production ceased in 1985, it was becoming too <=
br>
> expensive for IBM to manufacture such complicated mechanical <br>
> typewriters especially when the Wheelwriter series cost much less to <=
br>
> build. Nevertheless, tens of thousands of Selectrics remain in use <br=
>
> today, and they have a commanded a loyal following.<br>
> <br>
> Now, here's the really interesting thing about the Selectric <br>
> typewriter: the way the machine is designed, it is relatively easy <br=
>
> (if you know what you're doing, that is) to convert it from the <br>
> qwerty keyboard to the Dvorak keyboard. A former IBM engineer in <br>
> Oregon turned me on to this fact back when I was scouring the nation <=
br>
> for a typewriter with the dvorak keyboard. This same guy offered to <b=
r>
> convert a refurbished Selectric II to the Dvorak keyboard for $500. <b=
r>
> That was way too much money, so I politely declined. But the seed of <=
br>
> interest had been planted. A couple years later, I decided to take on =
<br>
> the challenge of converting a Selectric myself. In short order I <br>
> assembled the necessary tools and technical manuals to do the job. <br=
>
> <br>
> My guinea pig machine for the initial effort was a dirty, beat-up <br>
> Selectric II that I found at the local Salvation Army store for $3. <b=
r>
> Without too much difficulty, I went ahead and performed the <br>
> conversion, and the operation was a success. It was a very <br>
> interesting learning experience. I still have that ugly Selectric II, =
<br>
> but it doesn't get much use; I have since converted two much nicer <br=
>
> Selectric III's to use at the office and at home. Here's a shot of <br=
>
> one of them:<br>
> <br>
> <a href=3D"http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/SelIII.JPG">h=
ttp://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/SelIII.JPG</a><br>
> <br>
> If anyone on this list would be interested in converting their own <br=
>
> IBM Selectric to Dvorak, I have prepared a tutorial package <br>
> explaining how to do it. The package consists of a tools list (tools <=
br>
> not included, sorry) and detailed step-by-step instructions (22 pages =
<br>
> complete with color photos), a CD-Rom of slides covering operational <=
br>
> theory and disassembly of the keyboard area of the machine, and an <br=
>
> accompanying audio cassette tape for the CD-Rom. <br>
> <br>
> <a href=3D"http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/guide.JPG">ht=
tp://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/guide.JPG</a><br>
> <br>
> This is surely the only place on the internet (and probably the <br>
> planet) where this type of information is available. In order to <br>
> cover development costs, I am asking $50 for the package (postage <br>
> included) for members within the United States, and $60 the package <b=
r>
> (postage included) for members outside the United States. Contents of =
<br>
> the tutorial package are copyright protected.<br>
> <br>
> The conversion itself is pretty straightforward. There are obviously <=
br>
> many small details I can't go into here, but basically the conversion =
<br>
> involves:<br>
> <br>
> 1) Removal of the typewriter from its case;<br>
> 2) Removal of the plastic keytops;<br>
> 3) Partial disassembly of the keyboard;<br>
> 4) Removal and re-arrangement of the character interposers;<br>
> 5) Re-assembly of the keyboard;<br>
> 6) Re-installation of the plastic keytops;<br>
> 7) Putting the typewriter back into its case.<br>
> <br>
> Although any Selectric can be converted, I would recommend the <br>
> Selectric III for one important reason: the plastic keytops can be <br=
>
> removed and re-arranged into the dvorak configuration and they will <b=
r>
> still sit at the correct angle. The same CANNOT be said for the level =
<br>
> I and level II machines. Those machines have deeply dished keytops <br=
>
> that are angled uniquely according to what row they are in. If you re-=
<br>
> arrange them, they end up looking and feeling weird. Oh sure, you <br>
> could leave them in their original position and re-label them using <b=
r>
> aftermarket keytop labels, but I don't think it would look very good. =
<br>
> And besides, it would defeat the whole point of the exercise, which <b=
r>
> is to build a stealth Selectric that looks as though it came right <br=
>
> from the factory with the Dvorak keyboard.<br>
> <br>
> <a href=3D"http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/SelIII2.JPG">=
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/SelIII2.JPG</a><br>
> <br>
> Since I'm on the subject of the machines themselves, let me go into a =
<br>
> little bit of detail about the only two design concessions involved <b=
r>
> in the Dvorak conversion. Every stock Selectric has special "repe=
at <br>
> lug" on the bottom of the hyphen/underscore keylever which allows=
<br>
> automatic repeat action when that key is depressed 2X farther than <br=
>
> normal. Because the keylevers are not moved during the conversion, <br=
>
> this repeat lug will end up being on the =BC =BD keylever. Unfortunate=
ly <br>
> it is not possible to re-locate this repeat lug to the new <br>
> hyphen/underscore keylever in the home row. The lug has to stay where =
<br>
> it is, with the result that the =BC =BD key in the top row will end up=
<br>
> having the repeating function. In my mind, this is certainly not a <br=
>
> big deal. The =BC =BD key is seldom if ever used, and if you don't pre=
ss <br>
> it down farther than normal, it won't repeat anyway. If this would <br=
>
> really bother you, then the repeat function would have to be <br>
> disabled. This is done by temporarily taking that keylever out of the =
<br>
> machine and removing the repeat lug by grinding the rivet off with a <=
br>
> Dremel tool. But in order to remove the keylever from the machine, <br=
>
> you need a spare keylever fulcrum wire. So, my advice would be to <br>
> simply leave the repeat lug where it is. <br>
> <br>
> The other design concession concerns the "dual velocity" fea=
ture of <br>
> the machine. All Selectrics (apart from early models) were designed <b=
r>
> so that the type element would strike the paper with less force when <=
br>
> the "low velocity characters" were typed. (The low velocity =
<br>
> characters consist of the period, comma, quote marks, colon/semi-<br>
> colon, and hyphen/underscore.) The idea was to prevent the paper from =
<br>
> being cut since the low velocity characters have less surface area <br=
>
> than the other characters. This is accomplished by means of a fairly <=
br>
> simple linkage between a low velocity vane at the front of the <br>
> keyboard (which is only rotated when the low velocity characters are <=
br>
> typed) and the print cam follower at the type-head. <br>
> <br>
> When a low velocity character is typed, the interposer for that <br>
> character is pushed forward and contacts and rotates the low velocity =
<br>
> vane, which by means of a connecting linkage releases the low <br>
> velocity latch, which allows the low velocity cam follower to contact =
<br>
> (and follow) the low velocity cam on the end of the filter shaft for <=
br>
> the duration of that print cycle. The other end of the low velocity <b=
r>
> cam follower pulls on the end of the low velocity control cable, the <=
br>
> other end of which is connected to the roller of the print cam <br>
> follower. The roller of the print cam follower is thus pulled to the <=
br>
> left and made to ride on the low velocity lobe of the print cam.<br>
> <br>
> Follow all that? Good. Here's what it boils down to, though. The dual =
<br>
> velocity system was a good idea, and it works. But realistically, it <=
br>
> was very common for machines in the field to be operating with broken =
<br>
> or seized low velocity cables, with the result that all characters <br=
>
> would be printing at full velocity. Most of the time the operators <br=
>
> were not even aware that anything was wrong. For anyone doing this <br=
>
> conversion, the best way to address this issue is to simply cut the <b=
r>
> low velocity control cable where it connects to the low velocity cam <=
br>
> follower. This will disable the system, and all characters will print =
<br>
> at full velocity. It won't make one iota of difference unless you <br>
> type on really thin paper (like onion skin). Just keep the impression =
<br>
> control stick on 1 or 2, and you'll be fine. If you really, really <br=
>
> wanted to have the low velocity characters print at low velocity <br>
> after the conversion, you'd have to fabricate a new, longer low <br>
> velocity vane with a different lug pattern. I did this twice for the <=
br>
> two Selectric III's that I converted, and trust me, it's a gigantic <b=
r>
> pain in the butt. It's not really worth the effort.<br>
> <br>
> If you're still reading this, you're probably wondering, "would I=
be <br>
> able to perform this conversion?" Well, I would say that if you'r=
e <br>
> the type of person who knows nothing about tools and is not <br>
> mechanically inclined at all, then you probably don't want to attempt =
<br>
> this. But, if you're the type of person who likes to tinker with <br>
> things, and is by nature mechanically inclined, then you should be <br=
>
> fine. <br>
> <br>
> <a href=3D"http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/BenchIV.JPG">=
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/853173/BenchIV.JPG</a><br>
> <br>
> Be forewarned, though, you have to be patient to do this conversion, <=
br>
> you need to be able to follow steps carefully, and you need to have <b=
r>
> the ability and organization to deal with a fair number of small, <br>
> delicate parts without losing or damaging them. The conversion <br>
> doesn't involve major disassembly of the machine; all of the work is <=
br>
> confined to the keyboard area, and only a couple of adjustments have <=
br>
> to be broken during the process. (And they are easily put back into <b=
r>
> adjustment).<br>
> <br>
> If this conversion is something you would like to do, contact me off-<=
br>
> list, and I'll get you set up with the conversion package. Trust me, <=
br>
> if you like typewriters, the conversion is certainly worth the <br>
> trouble. The end result is a fabulous machine that will make a very <b=
r>
> handsome addition to your desk. Talk about a great conversation <br>
> starter, too.<br>
> <br>
> Once you start using a typewriter, you realize how handy it is to <br>
> type up little things like rolodex cards, hanging file tabs, notes to =
<br>
> your editor, love letters to your sweetheart, etc. It really IS the <b=
r>
> ultimate accessory for the dedicated Dvorak typist!<br>
> --Peter<br>
><br>
<br>
</p>
</div>
=20=20=20=20=20
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=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20
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