Silnylon Treatment
Jim Marco <[email protected]> Fri, 16 Aug 2013 20:54:23 +0000
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Jim,
Yeah, that's pretty good for older silnylon that is startin=
g to mist/leak. If it is stretched, badly 20:1 is more like it. For spinnak=
er, about 20:1 is good, it stretches pretty easily, often without being app=
arent, except from inside against a bright sky. Two coats will often do pla=
in old nylon cloth. I got a bunch here a while ago that was mostly uncoated=
seconds. It needed treatment. For seams, about 5-10:1 is good. I often do =
both sides, though. A thin coat does not suffer from peeling like a thick c=
oat does.
I brush it on an area, working it in pretty well, then move=
any excess out to the next area. I adjust as I go. The stuff is very water=
y and requires a lot of mixing, even while working with it. I slob it on an=
d work it in firmly and quickly, nothing gentle about it. I get a few brus=
h marks, but only a few after it dries. It only adds an ounce and a half to=
a 9'x9' tarp or around .1-.2oz per yard. I am still using my 9 year old 9=
x12 tarp that was cut down to a shaped shelter and recoated this way. I tr=
ied WG, but it evaporates too quickly causing the brush to "stick."
My thoughts only . . .
jdm
>Jim, I am guessing that the recoat you mention is between one part silicon=
e caulking to 20 to 50 parts of mineral >spirits (low or no odor versions).
>
>Are there any tricks except for gentle brush workmanship and not overloadi=
ng the brush?
>
>The other Jim
James D. Marco
Cornell University (retired)
302 Mary Lane
Ithaca, NY 14850
607-273-9132 (land)
607-220-9969(cell)
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<p class="MsoNormal">Jim,<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> Yeah, that’s pretty good for older silnylon that is starting to mist/leak. If it is stretched, badly 20:1 is more like it. For spinnaker, about 20:1 is good, it stretches pretty easily, often without being apparent, except
from inside against a bright sky. Two coats will often do plain old nylon cloth. I got a bunch here a while ago that was mostly uncoated seconds. It needed treatment. For seams, about 5-10:1 is good. I often do both sides, though. A thin coat does not suffer
from peeling like a thick coat does. <o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> I brush it on an area, working it in pretty well, then move any excess out to the next area. I adjust as I go. The stuff is very watery and requires a lot of mixing, even while working with it. I slob it on and work it
in firmly and quickly, nothing gentle about it. I get a few brush marks, but only a few after it dries. It only adds an ounce and a half to a 9’x9’ tarp or around .1-.2oz per yard. I am still using my 9 year old 9x12 tarp that was cut down to a shaped shelter
and recoated this way. I tried WG, but it evaporates too quickly causing the brush to “stick.”
<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> My thoughts only . . .<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> jdm <o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o> </o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o> </o></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">>Jim, I am guessing that the recoat you mention is between one part silicone caulking to 20 to 50 parts of mineral >spirits (low or no odor versions).
<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">><o> </o></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">>Are there any tricks except for gentle brush workmanship and not overloading the brush?
<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">><o> </o></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">>The other Jim <o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o> </o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">James D. Marco<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Cornell University (retired)<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">302 Mary Lane<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Ithaca, NY 14850<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">607-273-9132 (land)<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">607-220-9969(cell)<o></o></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o> </o></p>
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