Removing struts from A4

Much of the pointers I have read have suggested pulling the axle, on the right
side, to help get the strut out.  I didn't.  Here's how I did it:

-jacked car up, jackstand under subframe
-bottle jack at hand to levitate the lower control arm as needed
-take out 18mm nutted bolt on lower casting which received the bottom of 
the strut
-removed ABS line
-used spreader tool to expand casting
-beat on presoaked in PBlaster casting and strut  
-ran sprint compressors so that the nuts which turn them are on top 
(I used three of them for stability).  Turned them with a flex head
3/8" ratchet with a shallow 3/4" socket on it.
-got sprint compressed
-loosened strut in lower casting more, until I could slip a screwdriver 
between strut and casting.
-took off top nut with plate using 21 mm impact
-slid strut out
-laying on the ground I put another compressor tool on (can't be too sure)
-took bushing nut out with impact deep 21 mm socket
-slid mount, bearing, bumper and trashed boot out
-replaced those, reassembled strut

Simply put, installation was the reverse, except there was some hammering 
of the casting to align it with the strut to allow the strut to reinsert.
The limit of the control arm is dictated by the interference of the right
drive shaft with the subframe, and that is why it was essential to compress
the springs.

The boot, mounts, bearings, and bumpers are actually really cheap, and worth
replacing all of them.  In this case the owner (a family member) had paid 
for new struts a year ago, and the mounts, bearings and bumpers were not
replaced.  THe boot was a series of concentric O's.  All changed, but wanted 
boots before winter, when the wear on the seals from particulates would 
be greater.

I do the driver side in two seeks, but I understand that there is not 
subframe and driveshaft interference on that side.

Hope this helps someone.



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