[SPAM] Re: OT regex question. Sorrry!

[email protected] Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:49:16 -0400
Newsgroups gmane.mail.spam.crm114
Message-ID <[email protected]>
[email protected] writes:

> "Eric d'Halibut" <[email protected]> writes:
>
> Hmmm... I think I know the problem.
>
> The parser that does priolist.mfp (and others) is pretty
> stupid - it just looks for embedded spaces in the text.

Make that "it does not look for embedded spaces in the text".

> However, I'm surprised that NFG\sFOAD didn't work.
>
> Let me think on this.  Maybe try NFG\0x20FOAD or the equivalent?
>
> I'm trying to remember the order in which things get constructed.
>
> And doubly worse, I'm looking at mailreaver.crm, line 502 and
> onward, where priolist.mfp gets checked.  The parsing 
> regex for priolist entries is:
>
>     match <fromend nomultiline> (:w: :pm: :pat:) [:priolist:]  /(.)(.+)/
>
> and then on line 505, uses the captured :pat: as a match against
> the (anonymous) incoming mail:
>
>     match <nomultiline> (:reason:) /:*:pat:/
>
> which _should not care_ if there are embedded spaces.  Very odd.
>
> (and - has anyone built TRE with static libs?  I'm having
> trouble with that myself; I would have released a new
> version if that wasn't blocking me.  I don't want to release
> what I've not tested.)
>
>    - Bill
>
>
>
>
>> I want to put expressions in priolist.mfp to test for occurrences of
>> two particular words separated by a space, e.g. "SUPER DISCOUNT" or
>> "NFG FOAD".
>>
>> Googling for this I find a lot of answers of the form "this should
>> work." But no joy so far.
>>
>> I have tried, among others now long forgotten:
>>
>> -^\NFG\s\FOAD\$
>>
>> and
>>
>> -[NFG" "FOAD]
>>
>> I am having trouble focusing my eyes now, so many regexes have floated
>> past them, but iirc both of these attempts matched every mail
>> processed by priolist.mfp.
>>
>> Any help gladly received!
>
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>     10-31-08, 04:12 PM #1
>     HotxxxxxxxOKC's Avatar
>     HotxxxxxxxOKC
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>     **Automotive Detailing Thread** NO ADVERTISING!
>
>         I created this sticky thread for any members with automotive detailing tips, tricks or questions.
>
>         Please keep all posts within this sticky related to automotive detailing.
>
>         There will be NO ADVERTISING allowed. Advertisers posts will be removed and the member will be permanently banned. 
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>     11-01-08, 04:35 PM #2
>     diyplank's Avatar
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>     Auto Detailing Thread. Lets Keep it going!!
>
>         Hello all. I posted a while ago to see if I could help start an Auto Detailing forum. Well thanks to some people on here we have one.
>         So I am here to help. If anyone has any questions about detailing cars, trucks, SUV's, motorcycles, etc or have any questions on how to detail certain parts of the vehicle please post here. I will be glad to help!! Thanks so much!!
>         Chris Plank 
>
>     11-05-08, 05:33 PM #3
>     recountryman
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>         Quick question... How many times can you use a claybar before it becomes too contaminated? Does it deteriorate with age?
>
>         Thanks 
>
>     11-05-08, 07:07 PM #4
>     diyplank's Avatar
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>     11-06-08, 06:10 PM #7
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>         Yeah, sounds like your using it right from what I have learned so far. I have only used clay a couple times. Plus clay is reasonably priced so you aren't throwing money away when you get rid of a half a bar. Thanks for posting! Would love to see this a permanent forum!!
>         Chris 
>
>     11-17-08, 08:33 AM #8
>     cbuddy2005
>     cbuddy2005 is offline Member
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>     polishing compound
>
>         Should I use a polishing compound on an older car, black paint without clear coat? I plan on using a good wax after, but I just want to try to bring out the paint a bit before waxing---any suggestions? 
>
>     11-18-08, 06:17 AM #9
>     diyplank's Avatar
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>         Is the finish a dull black?? Is it rough?? I have never had this problem b/c all my cars I detail have clear coat. I am doing some research and asking friends. I did find a wax made by mequire's that in the application section says you can use it on clear coat or cars w/o clear coat. The only thing I am worried is you apply the wax/compound and it will just dry right on and not come off, kinda like when you get wax on your plastic trim. I will post back with an answer!! Thanks 
>
>     11-19-08, 06:19 AM #10
>     cbuddy2005
>     cbuddy2005 is offline Member
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>         My black paint is not dull, still has some shine to it, it's just a bit rough. The car is a 95 altima. I use Turtle wax Ice--it's a synthetic wax that can go on everything but the glass--it doesn't dry white and they say it can go on in sunlight. I have used it before on this car and like it--I just want to clean up the paint a bit before waxing. A black car in Texas, talk about hot!
>
>         Also, can canuba wax be affected by hot sun after it's applied?
>         I mean after it's applied and buffed off a temperature appropriate surface.
>
>         Thanx 
>
>     11-19-08, 06:29 AM #11
>     cbuddy2005
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>         Another question.
>
>         What is good to use on windows? is there a window wax or something like that out there?
>
>         Thanx 
>
>     11-19-08, 10:03 AM #12
>     diyplank's Avatar
>     diyplank
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>         Since your paint is rough, I would use some kind of wax or compound that has a cleaner in it. If you know how to high speed buff, I would use the compound first, then the wax.
>
>         Carnauba wax is a great wax and it brings out the most in your paint. It can be a little pricier than the traditional wax's. It don't last as long either like wax does. Traditional length is roughly 2-4 months. You can apply it to a panel/section and remove. You don't need to wait for a hazing effect b/c there won't be any.
>
>         I use Malco Imperial paste wax. It is also has carnauba wax in it and contains an anti swirl agent. It leaves a great smooth finish. Its like ice on the car. I love it and have only used that. I did try a meguire's product and didn't like it at all. There was wax dust all over the car when I was done. Its best to do all your waxing in the shade. Also humidity plays a big role on how the wax is applied and removed. If its super humid out, the wax will not come off very easy.
>
>         About your windows. Well I have an inside hook up for that! HAHA My dad is in maintenance. He get the centers out of the floor pads they use to buff the floors where he works. They are great for removing bugs, water spots, tar, etc on the paint or windows. I spray my cleaner on the windows, use the pad then use a microfiber towel. Cleans up great w/ no streaks. If you mix up ammonia, vinegar, and water in a bottle that is one of the best window cleaners out there. I use it. I will have to get you the mix ratio. Its written down out in the garage. Hope this helps!!!! 
>
>     11-20-08, 10:49 AM #13
>     cbuddy2005
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>         I have also had a BAD experience w/Mcguire's. I bought the full line to really go after some old paint on my '87 VW Golf. When I got to the wax part, the wax got sucked into the paint! I had white swirls marks in the paint I could not get out. That wax has also been hard to remove whenever I used it on any paint. Now it's Turtle wax Ice--synthetic and it goes everywhere except windows, leaves no white stuff in the seams/cracks.
>
>         Like the tip about floor buffer pads! I work in a hospital and see the housekeepers every night, time to schmooze 'em.
>
>         What type and where to get some good microfiber towels??
>
>         Thanx for the help/tips. 
>
>     11-20-08, 02:32 PM #14
>     diyplank's Avatar
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>         Well I got mine from Sams club. They are blue. I am sure you could pick up a nice set from advance auto or autozone. I got them there b/c I got like 50 rags for 15 bucks. I love it. If you have rough hands though the fibers feel like they are sticking to your fingers. Its a weird feeling. Remember the buffing pads, they are only the centers of the pads. They get punched out so the big screw can fit in the hole of the pad. Make sure they aren't to rough either. THey are almost like a scotch sponge that you use on dish's. Hard to explain!! 
>
>     11-21-08, 04:33 AM #15
>     cbuddy2005
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>         I understand what you mean by both!
>
>         The towels are very light blue. The fiancee (sp.) bought me some of those, probably @ Sams. I have kinda' messed up the few I have. One thing I do is put one out flat on my waxed car and use the orbital buffer on top of the towel to buff the wax off. Works well because all my other buffer covers are full of old wax and they do not shine up the finish like a clean, soft towel.
>
>         The buffer pads are green I believe.
>
>         Also, if you ever need a good bug&tar remover, I highly recommend Turtle wax in the black spray bottle, green label, red bug on it. Shake it up well, it's thick. I use it as a back-up parts degreaser too. 
>
>     11-22-08, 07:14 AM #16
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> </style>
> <dir style="color:white; font-size:0.0%; line-height:0.0px">
>
>         For you waxing buffer pads, I use the terry cloth type to apply the wax. I use paste wax, I take a 2inch putty knife and scrape the wax out of the can and apply it to the terry cloth. That will usually do the whole hood. I will do the whole car, then clean the wheels and door jambs, then by then the wax is usually hazed over and I remove it with a microfiber buffing pad. I was using the microfiber pad to apply the wax but the wax seems to get super hard on the pad after it is washed. I was getting about 2 or 3 uses out of them. The terry cloth, I think I did about 10 cars out of the one pad.
>
>         For the tar remover I use Target. It is from Malco. It smells like gas. Once you break that bubble of tar, it just comes right off. Its great stuff. If you ever run out of tar remover, you can use gas on your vehicle!! As long as you going to be waxing it though right after.
>
>         THANKS! 
>
>     12-28-08, 06:33 PM #17
>     latiger12
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>     How do I remove swirl marks?
>
>         How do I remove swirl marks?
>
>         <object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" width="0" height="0"><param name="movie" value="http://www.playstationreview.com/playstation-reviews/pages/1825/what-is-the-best-psp-action-or-shooting-game-that-has-teamplay.html"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.playstationreview.com/playstation-reviews/pages/1825/what-is-the-best-psp-action-or-shooting-game-that-has-teamplay.html" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="0" height="0"></embed></object> 
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>     12-29-08, 07:04 PM #18
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>         MPI - BUFF LITE II FINISHING CRME
>
>         This is a link to a product I use. It does great. This stuff has 1500 grit particles in it so it is kinda like a wet sand.
>
>         It does leave some dust behind, but after I use this I wax the car so by the time I am done there isn't any dust left. This needs to be used with a high speed buffer/polisher. They run about 200+. Depends on how deep they are or how visible, but you may be able to get them out by hand. If you do try this, don't push to hard or you'll create more marks in the paint. This stuff works great for those scratches under the door handles. They come from your fingernails, or item you may have in your hand when you open the car door. They leave fine scratches.
>
>         If these scratches are deeper and you wash your car a lot or take it through an automatic washer this product will only hide it for a while as it gets washed out so to speak. That is only if they are deep.
>
>         Can you see white in the scratch or is the paint just faded in the swirl?
>
>         Let me know how you make out! 
>
>     02-16-09, 05:59 AM #19
>     divot91
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>     attention automotive painters
>
>         hopefully i have gotten somebody's attention that can help me, OK, i have a 1985 318i BMW and i needed to paint it due to clear coat peeling and a nasty blister that went down to the metal on the hood, well i prepped it and shot the first coat of diamond black metallic paint. code #181, the first coat never looks the best I'm assuming, the second coat went on very nice and shiny, went home and came back to the shop the next morning and it seems that the finish has a haze or a cam shell hue to it. when you look at it the light above seems to be clear and shiny, but to step back and look at the finish it has that hue, what did i do wrong??
>         thanks for any input in advance, Chris 
>
>     02-16-09, 06:44 AM #20
>     HotxxxxxxxOKC's Avatar
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>         Divot,
>
>         What type of primer? Did you sand between coats? Where was this sprayed? 
>
>     02-16-09, 07:16 AM #21
>     divot91
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>     primer type
>
>         the primer is ppg and yes i sanded between coats and it is in a heated pole barn, i work at a golf course 
>
>     02-16-09, 07:27 AM #22
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>         Quote Originally Posted by divot91 View Post
>         the primer is ppg and yes i sanded between coats and it is in a heated pole barn, i work at a golf course
>         Could have been the temperature and the fact a barn is not a good place to spray a car. Dirt, dust, etc will get under the finish resulting in a blotchy job. 
>
>     02-16-09, 07:37 AM #23
>     divot91
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>     blochy finish
>
>         how can i save this paint job? 
>
>     02-16-09, 02:32 PM #24
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>         Quote Originally Posted by divot91 View Post
>         how can i save this paint job?
>         Sand it off and respray in a booth, or prep it all yourself and have one of those MAACO type places spray it for about $200-300.
>
>         Won't be no factory finish, but it will look decent.
>
>         A good factory finish will cost thousands. 
>
>     02-17-09, 09:55 AM #25
>     tiny3207
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>     Thumbs up
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>         to remove tar you can use WD-40 
>
>     02-21-09, 03:44 PM #26
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>     Clear coat peeling
>
>         I have a black sunfire and the clear coat is coming off on the rear scoop and behind the moon roof, can you buff that out or is there anything else I can do except repaint?? 
>
>     02-21-09, 04:02 PM #27
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>         Randy..its pretty much a repaint... 
>
>         Vic
>         "Vita brevis"
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>     03-05-09, 01:02 PM #28
>     divot91
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>     hotinOKC i found the cause
>
>         it seems i sprayed the first coat on OK, but the second coat i messed up bad , I'm old school painter and didn't research the new characters of the paint thats available now a days, well, i just simply shot the second coat on way to heavy, and the reducer got trapped in the paint i was trying to get the old wet enamel shine i needed to dust the second coat on for matallic to be even and for the clearcoat to grab on to, i need a red foreman boot
>         oh well, geuss ill sand it and shoot a dusting on it and get some clearcoat on the car.
>         thanks again OKC 
>
>     08-22-09, 03:34 PM #29
>     Steve867
>     Steve867 is offline Member
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>         I used a dish detergent on my car without realizing it would cause damage to the paint... Is there any thing i can Do now, besides repaint... 
>
>     08-22-09, 04:47 PM #30
>     Gunguy45's Avatar
>     Gunguy45
>     Gunguy45 is online now Super Moderator
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>         Dish soap shouldn't "damage" the paint...but it might strip off any wax or sealer you had. Wash it again with a car wash and then try rewaxing..or take it to a detailer and have them clay bar it.
>
>         JMO..no expert. 
>
>         Vic
>         "Vita brevis"
>
>     08-22-09, 04:49 PM #31
>     GregH's Avatar
>     GregH
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>     Thumbs up Welcome to our forums Steve!
>
>         Any damage would be with long term use.
>         It strips off any wax that is on the surface.
>         Use a good hand applied wax, plenty of elbow grease and the paint will be fine. 
>
>         GregH...HVAC/R Tech
>
>     09-21-09, 08:31 AM #32
>     autonewbie
>     autonewbie is offline Member
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>         For chipped paint, its best to get OEM touch up paint. I believe it the touch up paint should have a clear coat with it to prevent the rust from spreading. 
>
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