Compact Fluorescent Bulb brands?
Pete Stephenson <[email protected]>
| Newsgroups | gmane.mail.spam.spamcop.geeks |
|---|---|
| Organization | HeyPete.com |
| Message-ID | <[email protected]> |
I already use several CFL bulbs around the house (mostly made by TCPi or Commercial Electric [the latter being from Home Depot]) and have been quite satisfied with them. As incandescent bulbs around the house burn out, I'm convincing the folks to replace them with CFL lights. For their sake, I want to pick bulbs that provide an incandescent-like light (around 2700K) that is consistent from bulb-to-bulb. We'd need bulbs with both standard and candelabra bases, and in a variety of brightnesses (40-watt equivalent for the candelabra base fixture in the hallway, and 60-watt equivalent standard bases [but in the "torpedo" shape] for the outdoor driveway lights [which are protected from the elements]). Also, having regular-shaped bulbs (globe-enclosed or spiral bulbs are fine) and indoor floods is important. I've found that different bulb brands, while claiming the same color temperature, frequently have slightly differing colors. For example, Commercial Electric 40-watt equivalent CFLs produce a yellowish light, while TCPi 65-watt equivalent floods produce a slightly more pinkish light. While this difference doesn't bug me, it's likely to bug the folks a fair bit, which is something I'd like to avoid. I'd prefer to stick with brand-name bulbs that are available from a local source (GE, Commercial Electric, TCPi, etc.) rather than off-brand value bulbs from unknown manufacturers that may be hard to match later. Any suggestions? Personal experience? (Interestingly enough, it seems that TCPi makes both the "Commercial Electric" brand CFLs at Home Depot and the "DuraBright" brand at Orchard Supply Hardware. Perhaps it's just this one particular TCPi bulb I have here, but it produced a noticeably pinkish light -- after I replaced it with another of the same brand and model, the replacement emits a more natural, yellow-white light. Hmm. Maybe just a quirk?) ..... On a similar note, I'm curious what the difference is between the retail-packaged Commercial Electric 60-watt equivalent spiral CFLs and the "Contractor Grade" Commercial Electric 60-watt equivalent spiral CFLs. Both are available at Home Depot, both are manufactured by the same company, but the "contractor grade" ones come in a bland cardboard box, while the retail ones come in a flashy retail package. I wonder if there's actually any mechanical difference between the two types of bulbs, or if it's just a packaging/marketing ploy? If they're exactly the same, I might as well buy the "contractor" ones, as they're bulk-packed and less expensive. ..... Finally (and I know this is getting long!), I received a gift certificate to ThinkGeek.com and bought a Kill-A-Watt (http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/7657/) electric monitoring device. It's illuminating (pun very much intended) to use it to see how much electricity various appliances use. Some, like my Honeywell air filter (the room gets dusty) only uses about 10W, which is less than expected. Others, like my toaster (1500W), use more than I expected. I'm surprised at how efficient my desk area is -- with a laser printer on standby (it uses about 800W to warm up the elements, and no perceptible power to remain either idle or warmed up for about 10 minutes, after which time it goes into power-save mode), a 19" LCD monitor, a 2x2Ghz PowerMac G5, and a 2.2Ghz Athlon64 PC, only about 480W are being consumed. With all the computers, screen, and printer off, the APC UPS, router, Vonage box, DSL modem, and network switch (as well as the wall-warts powering them) draw about 45W. The PowerMac G5 in "sleep" mode draws 11W while my Monsoon Audio speakers draw 30W idle, presumably much more when being fully utilized. Wattage estimates for lightbulbs appear to be spot on: a 65W GE floodlight consumes 63W, and a 15W CFL bulb consumes 13W. Hooray for a nerdy piece of equipment that actually has use! -- Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com