Re: Kawai K5 upgrade ROMs

If the LCD flashes, it means that there's something getting to the data 
lines, but not correctly... Maybe cheesy logic, or signals that don't 
get to them. (Maybe a damaged PCB trace?)

The first chip where the wheel pulses go in is U9, a 74HC365 chip. Then, 
U12, a 74HC74, and finally, U7, an other 74HC365. I don'T know if it'S 
possible to simulate the wheel, but I'd change the three logic ICs 
first. I don't have my K5 and schematic in front of me, but I think that 
testing the logic is not really worth it. After all, it costs about 
$0.25 per chip, so changing them would be the easiest and cheapest 
solution.

When you remove chips in your K5, cut the pins with a cutter right next 
to the DIP plastic casing, remove the pins one by one and then use a 
desoldering pump to remove the remaining solder in every holes. It's 
long, and risky for the PCB, but it's the only way to remove a chip on 
these boards.

Antoine


bill bigrig a écrit :
> Howdy,
>
>  ichecked the data wheel connections al the way down
> to the chassis cicuit board. Thay all conduct. All the
> butons work. I tried jumpering the pins on the data
> wheel contancts, but to no avail. I shot it with
> circuit cleaner, but nothing. I notice that the
> display blinks when turning in one diretion, but stays
> steady the opposite way. Is there a way to simulate
> the pulses from the data wheel? Either the wheel
> doesn't work, or there is a problem on the lower
> board. any ideas? Do I need a logic tester to test the
> data wheel? Also where are the +/_ buttons that the
> display says to press, or is it moving the data the
> way to selct plus/minus. What is the first chip on the
> board that the data wheel goes into and what should I
> expect at the pinouts?
> Thanx
> Rig
>
>
> --- bill bigrig <billbigrig-/[email protected]> wrote:
>
>   
>> Howdy,
>>
>>  Assuming I get the wheel working,9the cursor
>> switches
>> do work), how do I com up with a source for the
>> original sounds to load with system exclusive?
>> Thanx.
>> Rig
>>
>> --- Antoine Deschênes <antdes45-FFYn/[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>     
>>> bill bigrig a écrit :
>>>       
>>>> Howdy,
>>>>
>>>>  You say to diconnect then reconnect the
>>>>         
>> battery?
>>     
>>> Yes, that's the only way to reset the RAM. I said
>>>       
>> a
>>     
>>> while ago to 
>>> disconnect and reconnect the battery to reset the
>>> synth, and I just said 
>>> to disconnect and reconnect the cables between
>>> MI-003 and the wheel.
>>>       
>>>> I forgot. The rest of your tips, I will try, and
>>>>         
>>> THANK
>>>       
>>>> YOU for this valuable info. i will do these
>>>>         
>> tests
>>     
>>> and
>>>       
>>>> get back to you. THANX AGAIN!!!!
>>>> Rig
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --- Antoine Deschênes <antdes45-FFYn/[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>   
>>>>         
>>>>> If the battery doesn't work, you'll just lose
>>>>>           
>>> your
>>>       
>>>>> sounds every times
>>>>> you start the synth. The ROM can't be damaged
>>>>>           
>>> from
>>>       
>>>>> normal use. I'd try
>>>>> to reseat(disconnect, connect) the cables
>>>>>           
>> related
>>     
>>> to
>>>       
>>>>> the switch and
>>>>> wheels if I was you.
>>>>>
>>>>> To put back sounds you'll need the wheel to
>>>>>           
>> work
>>     
>>> :
>>>       
>>>>> You have to go in
>>>>> the midi menu to enable SysEx receiving and
>>>>> transmission, which is
>>>>> sadly impossible for you right now.
>>>>>
>>>>> But if the buttons work and not the wheel, the
>>>>> interface should still
>>>>> work, unless you have an hardware problem
>>>>> somewhere...
>>>>>
>>>>> OK, I looked at the schematic(All the following
>>>>>           
>>> is
>>>       
>>>>> about the MI-003
>>>>> circuit board). The two wheel encoder signals
>>>>>           
>>> pass
>>>       
>>>>> through three 74HC
>>>>> logic ICs to end in the same data lines as the
>>>>> LCD(The CPU seems to
>>>>> use the same data port for both) If your LCD
>>>>>           
>>> works,
>>>       
>>>>> the problem is
>>>>> more likely to be situated with the logic(Two
>>>>> 74HC365 and a 74HC74) or
>>>>> the wheel encoder itself.
>>>>>
>>>>> The encoder signals pass through R10 and R8 to
>>>>>           
>> go
>>     
>>> in
>>>       
>>>>> U9, then U12 and
>>>>> U7. Maybe you could try to see if the signal
>>>>> actually gets to R8 and
>>>>> R10?
>>>>> In my case, I briefly get some pulses on R8 and
>>>>>           
>>> R10
>>>       
>>>>> while I turn the
>>>>> wheel.(The encoder uses pulse switches)
>>>>>
>>>>> And now, on the MI-008 board, the two bottom
>>>>>           
>> pins
>>     
>>>>> should feed 5v to
>>>>> the encoder, and the top ones just send pulses
>>>>>           
>>> when
>>>       
>>>>> it's turning.
>>>>>     
>>>>>           
>>>       
>>
>>  
>>
>>     
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>>     
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>  
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