hi Roger - thank you for this very informative reply. I was able to remove the key bed w/o too much trouble, as well as the (2) broken hammer weights. I ended up taking it to a local audio store for repair, and will definitely make sure they order hammer weights that are ABS plastic - great tip! Thanks again for your expertise.
BestSteve
On Monday, January 21, 2019, 7:51:14 PM EST, Roger J [email protected] [KurzList] <[email protected]> wrote:
Remove front wood panel under lid. There is a 4x4 cross member above the fall board, aka key lid. Remove it. Dont total recall if has screw or just press fit. Remove fall board.
Remove the 5 forward #2 Phillips with washers from underneath the key bed and 3 in back. Remove left cheek block, maybe both, been awhile. Each have screws underneath. Key bed should now be loose. Tilt up and unplug both ribbon cables. Lift out.
There are two hammer weight assemblies. Your problem is near where they split and possible only one needs repair. Most likely both will need removal, as they tend to break both weights and brackets in this area.
You must remove white keys first, then black. First remove key springs. Natural and sharps are different, so desperate. Find a tube or shaft that insert into spring from top and depress to unhook. Insert a wide slot screw driver into key pivot from back of key and lift back of key. Caution, sharp plastic edge can cut you finger here, so pry up gently or glove up!
Continue lift in back of key while sliding forward to remove keys. Next remove sharps in affected area. All keys must be remove so weight assemblies can be remove. They are attached with China #+1 phillipish screw from bottom of metal frame. Mark location of each before removal, typically every other is missing from factory.
Lift out and repair broken parts. Check YouTube for help.
There was never a manual for the grand piano version of the MK 10, the Mk110.
There we 3 versions of the FATAR model 10. You probably have a model 10md, with the square weights. You could have the model 10mdf, with the longer and more rounded. Unlikely not the non lead 10mdr steel weights. The steel mdr weights will not fit the earlier mdf or md. Replace with correct parts. Model is on key frame.
Do your natural key grate or squeak? Common issue on model 10md.
Re, syntax parts, ask if any of the used hammer weight have ABS stamping into plastic. The non ABS ones broke often, the fix was to upgrade to ABS plastic.
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On Sun, Jan 20, 2019 at 5:50 PM, steven emrick [email protected] [KurzList]<[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks Roger. I see this site which appears to have some of the parts you reference:https://www.syntaur.com/kurzweil_k2000.html#2500
I don't know the correct procedure to remove the keyboard - I do see different screws on the top of the piano near the speakers that presumably would expose the wiring around the speakers, but not sure if removing all that is necessary or if there is another way to access the keyboard for removal. Any pointers would be appreciated.
BestSteve
On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 8:06:28 PM EST, Roger J [email protected] [KurzList] <[email protected]> wrote:
You have a broken hammer (simulator)and or broken support brackets. This requires removing keyboard, remove keys from frame, removing the hammers assembly and replacing the broken parts.
Since fatar no longer supports the model 10 keyboards, you will need to update to a later model assembly used on current models or locate some used parts. Since ALL fatards of this era had defective plastic, used parts tend to be just as bad as what you are replacing.
If the replacement hammers have ABS stamped on them, the are the better plastic. Also note there were 3 different hammer versions, you most like have the square early ones, as did most model 110.
The K2500 and PC used the same assembly with a mono pressure strip.
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On Sun, Jan 20, 2019 at 9:30 AM, Jon Hartmann [email protected] [KurzList]<[email protected]> wrote:
shooting from the hip, let me suggest you could open the case and see if there's something stuck under the key?
On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 6:58:06 AM PST, [email protected] [KurzList] <[email protected]> wrote:
Hi - I have a Kurzweil Mark 110 Digital Piano (circa 2001). Very recently the B key (above middle C) got stuck in the up position - I can no longer push down on this key. I cannot find a service manual (without going through rather shady looking PDF redistribution sites) for this model online. I am fairly handy but it is not obvious to me how one would go about inspecting underneath the keys to see what the key no longer depresses. All the other adjacent keys function normally.
I believe the keys are made by Fatar, based on what I've read online. If anyone has experienced a similar problem and found a pathway to resolve, please share :) - thank you!
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