Re: 55gal processor

On 3/9/07, Zetan Drableg <[email protected]> wrote:

> I'm about to build a 55gal processor and wanted to run the design past
> ya'll.
>
> I've got a 55gal drum w/ top + ring seal.
> I'm going to have a buddy weld a drain pipe in the bottom and an inlet
> pipe near the top on the side. Not using the cone bottom design.

You could minimize your welding effort by getting a closed top metal
drum and flipping it over so the small and large barrel holes face the
ground. Then you can put the barrel on your stand and already have
good drain holes on the bottom.

The small hole can be used for mixing / recirculation.

The large hole can be used for a stand pipe allowing easy glycerol
separation since you won't be using a conical bottom.

You would only need to weld one hole on the top for the mixing /
recirculation to return to  and perhaps a small pressure relief valve.

> I'll be putting the barrel up on a stand to allow clearance
> of the drain pipe.
>
> I'm going to get two 220v water heater elements + themostat from
> HomeDepot. Drill two holes in the sides and mount the
> elements in the holes, seal & weld it up.

Good idea, too much heat, unless you were planning on using 120V to
power the 240V elements. When you have a stationary heating element in
a tank it tends to get crud baked onto it and eventually burn out
because it can't dissipate the heat fast enough.

For the heating element to really work well you should circulate the
oil past the heating element. Get a 2" T fitting and a couple 2"x1"
hex bushings. Then install the bushings on the bottom and one of the
sides. The bushing on the bottom will be the input and the one on the
side will be for the 1500-2000W 120V heating element.

It requires around 5-6 gpm circulating past the heating element to
keep it from over heating. So I would use the Harbour Freight pump (6
gpm) or the Northern Tool pump (12 gpm). Heating through circulation
also ensures that all the fluid is about the same temp, no "hot spots"
in the tank.

> The plumbing of recirculation, methoxide mixing, draining, will be done
> similar to the appleseed piping.

Just remember you don't need gravity to feed in the methoxide. If
properly setup you should be able to suck the methoxide out of the
carboy through induction.

> I've got two food grade barrels for storage of wvo and fuel.

> Any issues I should think about before punching holes in my steel drum?

Just those above about flipping it over.... Check out the diagram here ...

http://www.b100supply.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=128

> I'm still working on my 1/2 liter process with old canolda oil + KOH +
> methanol. First batch failed the wash test and turned into a white
> solution on top, dirty water on the bottom. Is there any recovery from this point
> or should I dispose of it?

Yes of course ... drain dirty water add more, continue washing.

> People say 'wash gently' or 'mist' but it seems like those are avoiding
> what is really a quality problem.

Well ... washing primarily removes the left over soaps created from
the additional catalyst calculated during titration. Remember the
whole point of titration is to determine how much catalyst will be
destroyed by the FFA's in creating soap.

The higher the titration, the more lye, the more soap, the longer it
takes to wash.

You need to be "gentle" because soap + water + biodiesel = emulsion.

The biodiesel gets trapped between the soap bubbles. You can break the
emulsion be putting in the freezer and letting it thaw again.

I prefer to wash in a couple steps, first and foremost don't splash or
introduce air into the solution. For example you could add hot water
to the solution and let it splash down or you could put the water tube
in the biodiesel and let the water enter the solution submerged,
gently stir and remove water. The more soap you remove the more
vigorous you can get with introducing the water. Repeat until water is
clear and pH is neutral.

Bubble washing is usually pretty gentle.

If your titration is very low, less than 1.5ml (0.1% NaOH) then you
could probably get vigorous right away, but it may take awhile for it
to settle out. Heating always speeds things up.


--
Jeff Brandt
Sun Break Biofuels, LLC
mailto:[email protected]