Re: Hard to Remove PM 2.0 x 3.0 Battery Hold Down Screws

VanguardLH <[email protected]> wrote:

> Boris <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC, 
>> purchased in March, 2017.  Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when) the 
>> laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually wouldn't 
>> hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger.  Finally, the 
>> laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger.  My daughter then put the 
>> thing in her closet and bought a new laptop. Yikes.
>> 
>> She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
>> 
>> I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on.  An hour later, 
>> the charging light turned white.  Ok, guess it's charged, but it still 
>> wouldn't boot.  Nothing, not even a hint that anything's going on inside.
>> 
>> Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the on/off 
>> button for 30 seconds.  Plugged the charger back in, but still wouldn't 
>> boot up.  Troubleshooting suggested that the battery may be the cause and 
>> to remove battery and try again with just charger and battery removed.
>> 
>> So I got the manual:
>> 
>> http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
>> 
>> I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive 
>> attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two panel 
>> hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0 screws removed 
>> to get the battery out.  They are in there very, very tight.  I have 
>> tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure.  I just can't budge the 
>> screws here.
>> 
>> https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
>> 
>> I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work.  Would a 
>> computer technician screwdriver set make a difference?  Are the  points 
>> shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these small screw heads?
>> 
>> TIA
> 
> The heads look thick enough that maybe you could get the tip of the jaws
> of a vise grip pliers (jaw locking pliers using a thumb screw, squeeze
> to lock, and use a lever to unlock).  You'll want a small one.  Once the
> vise grip is attached to a screw head, don't turn by hand.  Instead
> press down on the pliers to keep from popping off, and use a crescent
> wrench to twist the pliers.  
> 
> If you get the ratching screwdriver set that has replaceable bits, a
> good set will have different styles of Phillips heads.  You want a sharp
> ended bit, not one that is ground flat to fill the empty low space
> inside a larger screw.  The important part is the tangs of the tip
> engage the sides of the slots in the screw as much as possible for the
> depth of the slot.  Too small a tip won't well engage the sides of the
> slot.  You want well defined and sharp edges on the bits flanges.  An
> old screwdriver has probably been rounded off.
> 
> Besides using the right-sized bit, some have ridges aka ribs on the
> flanges to better grip the screw when under pressure during twisting.
> 
> https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/7515227-21.jpg
> https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/11/06/whats-the-difference-phillips-head-screwdriver-bits

After looking at your photo again, you sure that isn't a #2 Phillips
(PH2) sharp point screw?  If PH2 is too big, try a PH1.  There's even a
PHO tip.  

https://images.app.goo.gl/TJcS1YmgE4D9QbnL8

PH2:
https://cdn.menardc.com/main/items/media/SURET001/ProductXLarge/2520623_nopac.jpg
PH1:
https://cdn.menardc.com/main/items/media/SURET001/ProductXLarge/2520622_nopack.jpg

PH0 and PH00: Hard to find alone.  Get a precision screwdriver set.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Slotted-and-Philips-Screwdriver-71281H/302735272
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver-Set-with-Cushion-Grip-Handles-RHSDP01/319240867

To get enough pressure to prevent the bit from popping out of the screw
which damages the bit tip and the screw slot, press down on the
screwdriver with one hand, and turn with the other.  

It is possible if the screw were cinched in with a pneumatic assembly
line screwdriver so tight that you might break the head off the screw.
Then, um, you're screwed (smirk).  The screw is probably so small that
you couldn't drill down the center of it to use a spiral extractor.
Instead, and if none of the above helps, you could try using a Speedout
extractor.  The Speedout must have enough left of the head to grab it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Cobalt-Extractor-4-Piece-1000369/207096720#overlay
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAX-IMPACT-Carbon-Steel-Extractor-Set-3-Piece-DWAMIEXTRACT3/313982175

Another factor is if there is debris at the bottom of the screw slot.
This prevents the bit from fully seating into the slot.  Use a sewing
needle to ensure there is no debris at the bottom.  I have encountered
screws that were improperly formed in the press, and there is a blob of
metal at the bottom of the slot.  A drill might remove it, but don't use
a wood drill bit.  Cobalt drill bits are usually the best for drilling
into hardened steel.  Titanium bits only have a coating.  Cobalt bits
have cobalt throughout.  A carbide tip, the toughest available but are
more brittle, can work faster, but just the tip is hardened.  Carbide
bits last longer than cobalt for drilling, but you can more easily snap
a carbide bit.