Re: Hard to Remove PM 2.0 x 3.0 Battery Hold Down Screws

VanguardLH <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> VanguardLH <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> Boris <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>>> Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC, 
>>> purchased in March, 2017.  Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when)
>>> the laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually
>>> wouldn't hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger.
>>>  Finally, the laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger.  My
>>> daughter then put the thing in her closet and bought a new laptop.
>>> Yikes. 
>>> 
>>> She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
>>> 
>>> I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on.  An hour
>>> later, the charging light turned white.  Ok, guess it's charged, but
>>> it still wouldn't boot.  Nothing, not even a hint that anything's
>>> going on inside. 
>>> 
>>> Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the
>>> on/off button for 30 seconds.  Plugged the charger back in, but
>>> still wouldn't boot up.  Troubleshooting suggested that the battery
>>> may be the cause and to remove battery and try again with just
>>> charger and battery removed. 
>>> 
>>> So I got the manual:
>>> 
>>> http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
>>> 
>>> I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
>>> attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two
>>> panel hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0
>>> screws removed to get the battery out.  They are in there very, very
>>> tight.  I have tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure.  I just
>>> can't budge the screws here.
>>> 
>>> https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
>>> 
>>> I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work. 
>>> Would a computer technician screwdriver set make a difference?  Are
>>> the  points shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these
>>> small screw heads? 
>>> 
>>> TIA
>> 
>> The heads look thick enough that maybe you could get the tip of the
>> jaws of a vise grip pliers (jaw locking pliers using a thumb screw,
>> squeeze to lock, and use a lever to unlock).  You'll want a small
>> one.  Once the vise grip is attached to a screw head, don't turn by
>> hand.  Instead press down on the pliers to keep from popping off, and
>> use a crescent wrench to twist the pliers.  
>> 
>> If you get the ratching screwdriver set that has replaceable bits, a
>> good set will have different styles of Phillips heads.  You want a
>> sharp ended bit, not one that is ground flat to fill the empty low
>> space inside a larger screw.  The important part is the tangs of the
>> tip engage the sides of the slots in the screw as much as possible
>> for the depth of the slot.  Too small a tip won't well engage the
>> sides of the slot.  You want well defined and sharp edges on the bits
>> flanges.  An old screwdriver has probably been rounded off.
>> 
>> Besides using the right-sized bit, some have ridges aka ribs on the
>> flanges to better grip the screw when under pressure during twisting.
>> 
>> https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/7515227-21.jpg
>> https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/11/06/whats-the-difference-phill
>> ips-head-screwdriver-bits 
> 
> After looking at your photo again, you sure that isn't a #2 Phillips
> (PH2) sharp point screw?  If PH2 is too big, try a PH1.  There's even
> a PHO tip.  

Well, the HP manual does call out PH2.0.

> 
> https://images.app.goo.gl/TJcS1YmgE4D9QbnL8
> 
> PH2:
> https://cdn.menardc.com/main/items/media/SURET001/ProductXLarge/2520623
> _nopac.jpg PH1:
> https://cdn.menardc.com/main/items/media/SURET001/ProductXLarge/2520622
> _nopack.jpg 
> 
> PH0 and PH00: Hard to find alone.  Get a precision screwdriver set.
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Slotted-and-Philips-
> Screwdriver-71281H/302735272 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver-Set-wit
> h-Cushion-Grip-Handles-RHSDP01/319240867 

I will check both links.

> 
> To get enough pressure to prevent the bit from popping out of the
> screw which damages the bit tip and the screw slot, press down on the
> screwdriver with one hand, and turn with the other. 

Understood.  Did that with the jewelwer's screwdrivers, and a pair of 
pliers, but no luck. 
> 
> It is possible if the screw were cinched in with a pneumatic assembly
> line screwdriver so tight that you might break the head off the screw.
> Then, um, you're screwed (smirk).  The screw is probably so small that
> you couldn't drill down the center of it to use a spiral extractor.
> Instead, and if none of the above helps, you could try using a
> Speedout extractor.  The Speedout must have enough left of the head to
> grab it. 

Yeah, I suspect that the screws were installed with a pneumatic gun.  
Yep, if I break them, I'm 'screwed'.  Been there when rebuilding auto 
engines.

> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Cobalt-Extractor-
> 4-Piece-1000369/207096720#overlay 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAX-IMPACT-Carbon-Steel-Extractor-Se
> t-3-Piece-DWAMIEXTRACT3/313982175 

Thanks.

> 
> Another factor is if there is debris at the bottom of the screw slot.
> This prevents the bit from fully seating into the slot.  Use a sewing
> needle to ensure there is no debris at the bottom.  I have encountered
> screws that were improperly formed in the press, and there is a blob
> of metal at the bottom of the slot.  A drill might remove it, but
> don't use a wood drill bit.  Cobalt drill bits are usually the best
> for drilling into hardened steel.  Titanium bits only have a coating. 
> Cobalt bits have cobalt throughout.  A carbide tip, the toughest
> available but are more brittle, can work faster, but just the tip is
> hardened.  Carbide bits last longer than cobalt for drilling, but you
> can more easily snap a carbide bit.
>