Re: Air filter specs Question

On 2/21/06, Jeremy Roemen <[email protected]> wrote:
> When I bought the bike the previous owner had installed a yosh full race
> system, K&N, and jetted it but I don't know what the settings are.  The
> problem is if I hold the RPMs at 5000-5500 in 2nd (not as noticable in other
> gears)  gear and then whack it, it cuts out then pulls very hard. when its
> cold out its much, much more noticable( jerks hard, as in SNAP YOUR NECK).

I'd be willing to bet you've got a lean spot as you say below.

> I don't know if the bike was jet before or after the K&N was installed and
> yes it is the second design K&N.  It seems to be running lean in that RPM
> range, thats why I want the OEM filter inlet size so I can, for lack of
> better term, Beth-tardize it by duct taping the hole shut some so I can see
> if the restriction from a OEM filter will fix it. If it does then I will buy
> an OEM and some poor ba$tard  can buy my K&N. If it doesn't fix it then I
> will have to rejet it, :(

When I get home, I'll take a measurement for you. I have an OEM air
cleaner snorkel in the garage from one of my "experiments."

If you feel comfortable with taking off your carbs, we can help you
with the jetting within reason. A good starting point is stock needles
shimmed up one shim, fuel screws out 2.75-3 turns, stock pilots jets
and 140 mains for a free flowing exhaust system and stock aircleaner.
Hopefully, you've got the stock needles in there. If not, then I found
the Dynojet needles on the second to the topmost clip worked well
enough, although my mileage went down about 3-4mpg with no discernible
performance increase.

> Sorry Beth for using your name in vain but the tape trick seemed to help you
> out in finding what was causing your air/fuel ratio problem.

It did. It was quite rev happy and liked to go straight to 7K and
bounce off the redline all the time. The bottom end was a little less
umph-y than a 100% stock air cleaner. I put in the stock air cleaner
and I got back that low end and mid range I wanted and sacrificed some
of that nice top end.

Removing the snorkel, leaving the intake hole the same size as the
outer diameter of the snorkel, does change the bike's power delivery.
You can make it run quite well that way if you want top end. You'll
lose a bit of bottom end and midrange throttle response. Removing the
air cleaner top all the way back to the paper is essentially like
running pod filters and you have to jet accordingly...and you'll get
30mpg if you're lucky and I didn't like the throttle response once I
really compared it to a bike set up with either the mini-desnork (as I
described above) or an OEM, uncut filter.

All this being said, I'd say read Pascal's article as well:
http://www.svrider.com/tips/KandN.htm

Not problem using my name in vain, vane, vein or any other way, as
long as you spell it right.. :)

-Beth
--
"Newer computers aren't getting any smarter, they are just able to do
stupid things at greater speeds." -Technomancy

www.hacktastic.org - How 1997! I've gotta website!

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