Re: Cheapest horsepower

Erik:

The cheapest horsepower you will find is by installing a good pipe and
rejetting. The best horsepower is found with the M4 pipe. Next would
be a Micron. Rejetting costs about ten bucks. After the pipe is
installed, desnorkel the filter. Rejet as follows: 3 turns out on the
fuel screws, keep the stock pilot jets,  two 0.020" shims under the
needle clip, main jets are increased to 152.5. Get a #54 drill and
drill out the air slide holes. I did 77 dyno runs on a step by step
basis to get this jetting. I think it's as spot-on as it can get. I
think Beth and several others can vouch for how well it works.

In the article archives, I wrote a few articles that may be very
useful if you decide to pursue this route. They are: "Six Bucks and
the Snorkelectomy.....," July 2001, and "Getting Your Carbs Off as
Painlessly as Possible," July 2000. There is also great guidance and
terrific pictures at
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/Johns_bike.html. The biggest
difference between John's method of removing the carbs and mine is
that I take the chokes off the carbs at the carburetor, not at the
handlebars. I think my way as faster and easier as long as you put the
choke lever fully on before you disconnect them at the carbs. Please
note the one change since I published the snorkelectomy article: I no
longer use the 2-1/2 turns on the fuel screws with 17.5 pilot jets.
Using the stock pilot jets and 3 turns on the fuel screws is both
better and cheaper.

The result you will get from this modification are greatly increased
low and mid-range with virtually perfect throttle response. The power
is much more useable and the bike starts to pull decently at 3000 RPM
and gets far more serious at 5000 instead of 7000 RPM like the stock
bike. Keeping the bike between 5000 and 9500 on the track will give
you greater performance than the 7000 to 9500 range the stock bike
requires to produce real power. My bike produced 70.6 HP with this
setup, about a 3 horsepower top end benefit. Like a couple folks have
said, getting a significant amount of top end increase requires a
pretty steep cash investment. If you do the labor, this will cost you
the price of the pipe and $6 to $10 for the jets. Don't let any dealer
talk you into a jetkit. It is a complete waste of cash as you will see
from my "Six Bucks and the Snorkelectomy" article.

If you've had any mechanical experience, the procedure is not
difficult. Both John's website and my articles will give you all that
you need to do the job perfectly. BE SURE you check the float bowl
levels (stock settings are the best) and synch the carbs while doing
this modification. The only other area people have had problems is due
to sloppy reassembly. Make sure you hook up all of the lines to the
right connections and that your carbs and airbox are seated properly
without any air leaks. If you have any questions, e-mail me off-list
and I will do anything I can to help you.

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