Re: syncing carbies!

Bryant:

You cannot gain any performance with air filter and/or airbox
modifications using the stock pipe. The culprit is the pipe which is
way too restrictive (no point in putting more in if it won't come
out). With a stock pipe, the best you can do is following Jim and
Beth's suggestions: Stock filter/airbox, 2-1/2 to 3 turns on the fuel
screws (I found 3 turns worked a little better for me), and one 0.020"
(same as 0.5mm) shim under the needle clip. With the 3 turns and the
shim, the bike didn't require any real warm-up time, and since I live
in Florida, I didn't need the choke unless the temperature dipped
below 40.  DO shim the needle. Jim is 100% correct. You will see a
very welcome improvement in throttle response and low/mid range power
between 4000 to 7000 RPM. Even if you go to a full pipe (M4 and Micron
being the best bets for horsepower) and snorkelectomy, the benefits
come mostly between 3000 to 7000 RPM. Top end HP will only increase by
about 3 but you'll feel like you are riding a whole new bike. With the
above mods and the stock pipe, your power band is between 4-5000 RPM
to 9500 RPM. With the snorkelectomy and pipe, it will start a little
sooner and be significantly stronger from 3000 to 7000 RPM, giving you
an effective power range from 3-4000 RPM to 9500. Until you change the
camshafts, the 7000 to 10500 power remains about the same from
completely stock to the pipe and snorkelectomy route. With the stock
cams, there is no point in shifting later than 9500 RPM. It won't hurt
the bike to bounce off the rev limiter, but it's a complete waste of
time. Besides, if you shift at 9500, you'll grin like an idiot with
your new found low and mid range oomph. Hope this helps. Enjoy the
ride. Cheers, Jack

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