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Hmmm...I'd always thought the Active Duck did in fact use the 12-volt
bat=
tery. I think that's what I've always used in mine. I'll have to
double-c=
heck on what battery I have in it.
To me one limitation of the Active Duck=
is that it's so short that it
(and the receiver it's attached to of cour=
se) have to be placed in an
optimal spot in order to get enough signal to=
be able to amplify. If I
recall correctly I also had to wind a spiral of=
wire around it and
lead that spiral to the BNC's ground side when receiv=
ing 27 MHz. I was
getting overload or something.
I'll have to revisit my=
Active Duck...didn't the instructions say it
needed a 12-volt battery in=
it? I can't quite recall.
Chuck
Quoting "Mike Lehman rebelmike@earthlin=
k.net [VR-500]"
<[email protected]>:
> Back when these were availab=
le, I bought one and found it very helpful
> for receiving local MW broadca=
sting inside steel-framed buildings on
> campus, as well as for the usual S=
W stuff, all in a compact package that
> was a great add-on to enhance the =
wideband capabilities of the VR-500.
>
>
> One day, the darn thing just see=
med to quit working. In the middle of
> grad school, I had no time to mess =
with it, so set it aside. Grove had
> quit making them by then, so couldn't=
order new, either. Fast forward to
> getting my degree, I've been putting =
the shack back together and came
> across it. Hmmm? What's this, I must've =
put the wrong battery in! Seems
> I somehow ended up with some A23 batterie=
s, which are very close in size
> to the N 1.5v volt ones used in the Activ=
e Duck, but are 12 volts!
> Yikes, well that explains why the Duck was dead=
...
>
>
> Maybe you have the same issue?
>
>
> So I started digging. The gi=
ts are enveloped in a tacky substance to
> hold it all in place, so rather =
mysterious and hard to get to. Once
> cleaned up, it's a simple circuit con=
sisting of resistors, caps and a
> single transistor.labeled "J310 C9112" t=
hat is obsolete. After some
> cross-referencing, I substituted another FET,=
Mouser Part # 610-2N5457
> and reassembled. Works well and helps get recep=
tion in places where it's
> hard, as well as making a more compact package =
for SWL and other stuff.
>
>
> I did find that my Pryme 16" whip (apparentl=
y Pryme is getting out of
> the antenna biz, sadly) works better for HF th=
an the Active Duck in
> comparison tests on 11175, but can't beat the ADuck=
for compactness.
> Between the two options, my VR-500 is a portable utilit=
y/DX machine.
>
>
> Mike Lehman
>
>
> Urbana, IL
>
>
>
-----------------=
-----------------------------------------------
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IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
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<p>Hmmm...I'd always thought the Active Duck did in fact use the 12-volt <br>
battery. I think that's what I've always used in mine. I'll have to <br>
double-check on what battery I have in it.<br>
<br>
To me one limitation of the Active Duck is that it's so short that it <br>
(and the receiver it's attached to of course) have to be placed in an <br>
optimal spot in order to get enough signal to be able to amplify. If I <br>
recall correctly I also had to wind a spiral of wire around it and <br>
lead that spiral to the BNC's ground side when receiving 27 MHz. I was <br>
getting overload or something.<br>
<br>
I'll have to revisit my Active Duck...didn't the instructions say it <br>
needed a 12-volt battery in it? I can't quite recall.<br>
<br>
Chuck<br>
<br>
Quoting "Mike Lehman [email protected] [VR-500]" <br>
<[email protected]>:<br>
<br>
> Back when these were available, I bought one and found it very helpful<br>
> for receiving local MW broadcasting inside steel-framed buildings on<br>
> campus, as well as for the usual SW stuff, all in a compact package that<br>
> was a great add-on to enhance the wideband capabilities of the VR-500.<br>
><br>
><br>
> One day, the darn thing just seemed to quit working. In the middle of<br>
> grad school, I had no time to mess with it, so set it aside. Grove had<br>
> quit making them by then, so couldn't order new, either. Fast forward to<br>
> getting my degree, I've been putting the shack back together and came<br>
> across it. Hmmm? What's this, I must've put the wrong battery in! Seems<br>
> I somehow ended up with some A23 batteries, which are very close in size<br>
> to the N 1.5v volt ones used in the Active Duck, but are 12 volts!<br>
> Yikes, well that explains why the Duck was dead...<br>
><br>
><br>
> Maybe you have the same issue?<br>
><br>
><br>
> So I started digging. The gits are enveloped in a tacky substance to<br>
> hold it all in place, so rather mysterious and hard to get to. Once<br>
> cleaned up, it's a simple circuit consisting of resistors, caps and a<br>
> single transistor.labeled "J310 C9112" that is obsolete. After some<br>
> cross-referencing, I substituted another FET, Mouser Part # 610-2N5457<br>
> and reassembled. Works well and helps get reception in places where it's<br>
> hard, as well as making a more compact package for SWL and other stuff.<br>
><br>
><br>
> I did find that my Pryme 16" whip (apparently Pryme is getting out of<br>
> the antenna biz, sadly) works better for HF than the Active Duck in<br>
> comparison tests on 11175, but can't beat the ADuck for compactness.<br>
> Between the two options, my VR-500 is a portable utility/DX machine.<br>
><br>
><br>
> Mike Lehman<br>
><br>
><br>
> Urbana, IL<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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